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Pictorial DIY for an M54 spark plug replacement on a 2002 BMW 525i E39 with 95K miles

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162K views 122 replies 30 participants last post by  MKJS  
#1 ·
Disclaimer:
While all the photos are mine, many of the informative TIS & NGK attachments and diagrams will be recognized from a variety of sources in the Bimmerfest spark-plug archives.

Specifications:

  • 2002 BMW 525i automatic, 95K miles
    • Cylinder numbering is 1,2,3,4,5,6 from front to rear
    • Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4
    • Ignition coils are Bosch PN 12131703228, $85.84
  • Spark plugs are NGK BKR6EQUP (aka NGK 3199)
    • B = thread diameter = 14mm
    • K = hex size is 5/8", projected tip (ISO)
    • R = resistor type
    • 6 = heat range (where 2 is hot, and 11 is cold)
    • E = thread reach is 19mm (3/4")
    • Q = quad, i.e., 4-ground electrode (i.e., 4 prongs)
    • U = firing-end construction is semi-surface discharge
    • P = center material is "premium platinum"
  • Torque specifications
    • NGK spark plugs should be dry (i.e., anti-seize is not recommended by NGK)
      • Bentley
        • 25 Nm (18 ft-lb)
      • NGK
        • 22 Lb-ft +- 2 Lb-ft
        • 266 Lb-in +- 27 Lb-in
        • 2.5 to 3.0 kgm
        • Or, 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn after bottoming by hand (for new plugs)
    • Coil bolts (M6X25-ZNNIV SI, PN: 07119905400)
      • Torque = 10 Nm (7.5 ft-lb)
    • Fuel supply plastic engine cover bolts (M6X12-Z1-ZNS PN: 07119900272)
      • Torque = ?
    • Cylinder head plastic engine cover nuts (AM6-8-ZNNIV SI2 PN: 07129904553)
      • Torque = ?
Research:

  • BMW spark plug application charts (1) (2)
  • The best plug to use (1) (2)
  • Deciphering key for spark plug codes(1)
  • Visually reading plugs (1)
  • The truth about torque (1) & gap (1) (2)
  • DIYs for replacing spark plugs (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
  • Relevant pages from the 5-series BMW E39 Bentley manual:
    • Page 010-15, spark plug socket is 5/8", deep well
    • Page 020-9, Spark plug service interval, M54 engine, 100K miles
    • Pages 020-20 to 020-22, Spark plug R&R procedure
    • Page 113-17, torque specifications
      • Spark plug to cylinder head 25 Nm (18 ft-lb)
      • Ignition coils to cylinder head 10 Nm (7.5 ft-lb)
    • Page 120-9 cylinder numbering & ignition firing order
    • Page 120-11, ignition coil resistance specifications
    • Page 110-11 to 110-16, removal of plastic engine covers
Parts & Tools & Supplies:

  • Six (6) NGK BKR6EQUP (aka NGK 3199) spark plugs
  • 10mm socket
  • 5/8" spark plug socket (or 16mm deep socket)
  • 1/8" flathead screwdriver
  • 1/4" flathead screwdriver
  • 6" socket extension bar
  • 3" socket extension bar for 3/8" socket wrench
  • 1.5" socket extension bar for 3/8" socket wrench
  • Socket handle
  • Universal joint for 3/8" socket wrench
  • Dielectric grease (optional)
  • Anti-seize paste (optional)
Idealized DIY Steps:

  1. Optionally remove the passenger side cabin air filter housing and hose
    • Note I did not remove the cabin air filter nor the hose; the last spark plug would have been easier to remove & replace had I done so.
  2. Remove the oil filler cap temporarily.
  3. Using a 1/8th inch flathead screwdriver, pry off the two plastic passenger side cylinder head cover bolt caps and remove the two 10mm nuts with a 10mm socket wrench; pull the plastic cylinder head engine cover off by hand.
    • Note you may need a u-joint socket bar extension to remove the passenger side nut due to the proximity of the passenger side engine air filter housing hose.
  4. Replace the oil filler cap so that debris does not enter the engine.
  5. Optionally, using a 1/8" flathead screwdriver, pry out the two driver side plastic fuel-injection system engine cover bolt caps and remove the two 10mm bolts using a 10mm socket; pull the plastic fuel-injection system engine cover off by hand.
    • Note now is a good time to loosely replace the bolts removed so you don't lose them.
  6. Notice the long clip on the passenger side which holds the coil wires in place (it's optional to remove that clip to make coil removal slightly easier).
  7. Look around. Notice anything amiss or astray (e.g., different brand coils or mouse-chewed insulation like I had). Notice the two braided silvered ground straps, one at the #1 (fore) and the other at the #6 (aft) cylinder.
  8. Optionally, mark numbers 1 through 6 on the top of the coils with whiteout or other suitable marking.
  9. With a 10mm socket, remove the two bolts holding each coil in place.
  10. With a 1/4 inch flathead screwdriver, lift up on each coil's metal u-shaped harness connector clip and pull the harness connector toward the fender, away from the coil.
  11. By hand, wiggle each coil, and pull upward off the spark plug; the #6 coil will just barely make it out with the passenger side cabin air filter & hoses intact; but it will lift out.
    • Optionally loosely replace the coil bolts so you do not lose them.
    • Optionally test coil resistance as per the E39 Bentley page 120-11 (2002 edition)
  12. With a 5/8" standard spark plug socket & six-inch extension, remove each spark plug taking care to not apply any side forces while twisting it outward.
    • Note a five-inch long deep socket just barely makes it to the top of the engine.
    • Optionally number the plugs as you remove them (place a line in each of the six landings to label the six plugs).
    • If you did not remove the passenger side cabin air filter & hose, then the 6th spark plug will require a short 3" extension bar & a normal 5/8ths inch spark plug socket. Some use a length of fuel system hose, and/or a universal joint.
    • Note the old plugs were labeled NGK R5 BMW, while the new plugs are labeled NGK BKR6EQUP.
  13. Optionally, when replacing the plugs, some people apply a dab of anti-seize on the spark plug threads; however NGK advises against that because of the danger of over torquing.
  14. By hand, place the new plug in a rubber hose or in a rubber-seated spark-plug socket with extension bar sticking out (but no socket wrench yet), and turn the spark plug socket by hand in the counter-clockwise direction a few turns, and then clockwise, to avoid cross-threading.
  15. By hand, continue to turn the spark plug clockwise until you cannot turn it by hand any more. Then connect the torque wrench and torque to the figures listed above (1/2 to 2/3 turn or, about 180 to 240 degrees of rotation after you couldn't turn it by hand).
    • Note the #6 plug may require a deep socket, and/or a 1.5" extension instead of a regular socket and a 3"inch to 6 inch extension if you did not remove the passenger side cabin air filter housing & hoses.
  16. By hand, replace the coils & tighten the two 10mm bolts on each coil with a torque wrench.
  17. By hand, lift up on the u-shaped metal clip on each coil and insert the wire harness connector into each coil; when seated, push down on the u-shaped metal clip to secure the harness connector to each coil.
    • Optionally, apply dielectric grease to the female fitting of each coil harness connector.
  18. By hand, replace the driver side engine cover & 10mm bolts and plastic bolt caps if you had optionally removed it.
  19. By hand, temporarily remove the oil filter cap and replace the passenger side engine cover, tightening the nuts with a 10mm socket; replace the plastic bolt caps & the oil filler cap when done.
  20. Check your work area and start your engine to hear it purr!

Informal Pictorial DIY:

The only special item needed before you start is a box of the right spark plugs:
Image


I pried up the fuel rail plastic cover bolt caps; but it turns out I could have left this cover on:
Image


Interestingly, two of the four engine cover bolt caps were broken by someone else!
Image


I removed the two 10mm bolts under the fuel rail cover caps with a socket wrench:
Image


The 10mm bolt was hard to get out so I used bent-needle-nose pliers to grab the bolt head:
Image


The fuel rail plastic cover bolts are short as can be seen below:
Image


Since I elected not to remove the passenger side cabin air filter housing, I used a universal joint socket extension to access the last nut under the cabin air filter housing hose.
Image


It should be noted that the fuel rail cover is held on by two bolts:
Image


While the cylinder head plastic cover is held on by two nuts.

Here we have both plastic engine covers removed.
Image


To keep things tidy, once I pulled the two covers off, I loosely replaced all bolts, nuts, & oil filler cap previously removed:
Image


Optionally, once the coils are visible, you can run a quick coil operational test:
Image


And, you should do a visual inspection of all undercover hoses and wires.

Here, for some strange reason, you see the foam insulation around a plastic wire tube badly eaten away:
Image


In your visual inspection, make note of the #1 and #6 braided coil ground strap locations:
Image


And make note of the brown wire between coil #2 and #3 (which does not need to be removed):
Image


Also note the plastic clips covering and holding down the coil wires.
Image


Some spark plug R&R DIYs advocate removal of this coil wire cover clip:
Image


But I left the cover clip in place as the coil can easily be wiggled free simply by disconnecting the harness connector and removing two bolts holding the coil down.
Image


Remove the 10mm coil hold down bolts (there are two per coil), one by one:
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This is what the hold-down 10mm bolts look like:
Image


Pry up the spring clip holding the coil wire harness securely in place:
Image


Lift the u-shaped spring clip until it is almost an inch up:
Image


And then pull backward (toward the passenger fender) on the harness connector:
Image


With your hands, then grasp the coil and wiggle it upward and off the spark plug:
Image


At this point, I realized I should number the coils, so I numbered them with whiteout #1 to #6:
Image


Once the coil was off the spark plug, it was a simple matter to remove the spark plug:
Image


I marked the spark plug with a single line on a single hex landing & compared old & new:
Image


I repeated that process starting from the front of the engine, working backward:
Image


The last (#6) cylinder required shorter extensions, a u-joint, and a shorter spark plug socket:
Image


Here is a shot of the labeling (one line per cylinder) of the first three spark plugs removed:
Image


After unclipping and removing the 6 coils and 6 spark plugs, I loosely reattached all bolts, nuts, and clips:
Image


I then compared the six plugs visually, taking note of the threads explaining what to look for:
Image


Once all the plugs were out, I measured the hex nut to be 5/8ths (a 16mm also worked) and the threads were clearly 14mm (With calipers, I measured .537" thread diameter at the tip & .542" at the base of the plug; these measurements, converted to metric, are 13.634 mm to 13.769 mm. Since 0.5512" is 14.0000 mm, the nearest standard "hole" size is 9/16" or 0.563" or 14.288 mm).
Image


I replaced the spark plugs starting from the rear, which needed a hose to get it started:
Image


As with removal, I employed various different sized attachments for the back-most plug:
Image


CONTINUED IN THE NEXT POST ... (there is a limit of 35 pictures per post)
 
#2 ·
CONTINUED FROM ABOVE ...


My torque wrench was acting up (see broken oilpan bolt thread for details) so I used the 1/2-turn "torque angle" method of tightening the spark plugs after applying anti-seize to the threads.
Image


I used a hose to start the spark plug, twisting counterclockwise before twisting clockwise, and tightening hand tight with the hose, and then with just the spark plug socket and extension bar.
Image


Again, I worked my way down, this time from front to rear:
Image


Again, the #6 cylinder required slightly different combinations of shorter elements:
Image


Zipping it all back up, I lifted up all the clips, and reattached the coil wire harness connector, starting from #6 and working back to #1:
Image


One of the cylinders wouldn't allow the coil to be reattached; this was solved when I realized the spark plug socket rubber boot was still on the #1 plug. I removed it with a very long pair of tweezers.
Image


For the record, I took careful note of attaching the two ground straps (#1 & #6) properly:
Image


And, for what it's worth, I used dielectric grease on all electrical connections:
Image


Here's a shot of all the coils lined up, ready for me to snap down on the metal spring clip to lock the electrical connection into place.
Image


At this point, I did a visual inspection and then started the car to run the water-shake test:
Image


Then, I replaced both plastic engine covers, and the bolts and nuts holding them down:
Image


And, finally, I performed the final visual inspection prior to closing the hood on another successful DIY.
Image


For reference, here is a snapshot of the E39 Bentley recommendations for the E39:
Image


For reference, here is a quick look at the various spark plug types used in recent engines:
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For reference, here is a spark plug application chart for a variety of modern BMWs:
Image


And, for reference, here is a deciphering key for NGK spark plug markings:
Image


For reference, here is an NGK brochure describing torque for the various thread-size plugs:
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For reference, this diagram shows torque angles for the NGK spark plugs:
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For reference, this NGK technical bulletin discusses the use of anti-seize (they don't recommend it):
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And, for those who want to know more about the advanced plugs, here is a three-page TIS from BMW describing the features:
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#4 ·
I just did this myself at 84K. Kind of overdue but better late than never. Found some oil pooled in cylinders 1 & 2 so I gotta replace my VCG (again). Also need to replace one of the coil plug connectors as the boot has deteriorated. Nice to see a well documented step by step DIY. :thumbup:
 
#5 ·
Fudman said:
Found some oil pooled in cylinders 1 & 2 so I gotta replace my VCG (again)
Click to expand...
Hi Fudman,

Did it look like this?

Underneath my #1 coil was a very thin but definite hint of seepage of motor oil. Not enough to drip; but enough to smudge with my finger.

None of the other cylinders had this; they were all sparkling clean.

What do you make of this oil seepage under the #1 ignition coil?

Image
 

Attachments

#6 ·
That's nothing compared to mine! No pics but my cylinders #1 and #2 had enough oil in each well that the oil level came almost up to the coil spark plug boot (which is probably why one rubber coil spark plug connector/boot had deteriorated). I used a thin hose to suck the oil out. Then I used a long pointy paper towel to soak up what was left in each well. I think I got most of it because when I started the car after replacing the plugs, I didn't get the expected cloud of dark smoke (if any oil had drained back into the cylinder). I'm not too worried because this oil has accumulated over a period of 18 mos, since I did my Vanos seals. Just another thing to do...
 
#7 ·
Fudman said:
That's nothing compared to mine!
Click to expand...
Ah. Doing a search, I see you posted today in this thread ...
- Oil in spark plug well

The e39 uses a multi-piece gasket since the spark plugs enter through each valve cover. Each spark plug shares a separate gasket (two gaskets for three plugs). I know this because mine is leaking too. When I replaced my VCG during my VANOS seal job, I forgot to replace the sparkplug gaskets (No one else uses a multi-piece VCG!). Rather than take it all apart after reassembly, I took the chance that they wouldn't leak. Wrong! #1 and #2 have oil in there (I just replaced my spark plugs). So I need to replace my complete VCG this summer (again).
Click to expand...
Fudman said:
the oil level came almost up to the coil spark plug boot
Click to expand...
Searching, I see someone else has a similar problem where the oil is reputedly gurgling up from the bolt holes for the plastic cylinder head cover:
- Identify this part and oil leak, picture game

For the record, here is a picture of all six of my cylinders where we can see that only cylinder #1 has the oil seepage under the coil (I'm guessing that's from a slightly bad valve cover gasket?).

Image
 
#9 ·
gtxragtop said:
Did you use anti-seize or not? As you noted in your text, NGK plugs must not use anti-seize. Also the BMW TIS states no anti-seize.
Click to expand...
Ah. You caught me!

Truth be told, despite the fact I glossed over the topic in the DIY (saying only the politically correct words), I actually agonized for quite some time in my ever darker garage as the night wore on, over whether to use anti-seize or not on the plugs.

I even went back and researched and re-read all the literature i could find about the "special shell plating" (i.e. Trivalent coating) on the NGK BKR6EQUP plugs and 'what' it does for us.

The problem was, much like reading about religious dogma on motor oil, the more I read, the less I knew which way to go.

It's a good question:

  • Anti-seize?
  • Or not?
Here, for example, is a discussion I read over and over and over again:
- The Truth About Spark Plug Torque and Anti- Seize

It seemed that half the people said:

  • Use anti-seize because it prevents broken plugs later, even if the plug has the special tri-valent coating ...
While the other half (and both BMW & NGK) said:

  • Anti-seize is not needed (nor recommended) if the plug has a special coating; and it may cause you to have improper torque values if you do use it ...
As I pondered what to do, I came to the (perhaps misguided?) tentative conclusion that the warnings against using anti-seize (which were in plain sight) seemed to be "all about" torque.

Yet, the contrarian view (perhaps also as misguided?) was that you'll be sorry five years down the road when you bust a plug trying to replace it.

What sealed my decision (to run a test) was the fact that the plugs were VERY DIFFICULT for me to remove. They're OEM plugs (BMW branded, along with NGK). They were probably put there sans anti-seize paste.

They were really really really stuck in there. I had to use a LOT of force to remove them. And, when they creaked out those first few turns, it scared me that I was stripping threads because it felt like I was twisting the plug like a tap, cutting my own threads on my way "out" of the spark plug hole!

Those six tortuous removals instilled, in me, a foreboding sense of:

  • Fear
  • Uncertainty
  • Doubt
This FUD caused me to ponder (for quite some time) what I should do.

It didn't help that my Harbor Freight torque wrench wasn't working right (which is why my oil pan bolt busted). So, I had already decided to rigorously follow the 1/2 turn "torque angle" approach on all six plugs (for lack of a better idea).

In the end (for better or for worse), as a ghoulish 'experiment', I actually used anti-seize on only HALF the plugs; leaving the other half pristine and bare to the ravages of the engine over time.

In five years, when it's time to remove the six plugs, only then will I know what the 'right' approach was! :)

Until then ... ???

In the picture below (sorry, bad garage night lighting), you see a thin coating of anti-seize on this particular spark plug before I screw it in.
Image
 

Attachments

#11 ·
Hey bee, if you don't mind I would like to add some valuable info.

When pulling the bosch coil pack off the spark plug take extra care. The rubber boot that connects to the spark plug may become brittle.
If a tiny piece breaks good luck trying to fish it out.
Don't ask me how I know this. The lip on my first spark plug boot broke off inside the well. Was there for 30 mins fishing it out.

What ever you do, do not proceed with taking out the spark plug while there is rubber pieces in the well!
It will fall into the cylinder and god know what it will do in there.

Funny you mentioned your plugs were extremely hard to remove bee.
Mine came out with literally no effort what so ever! I do believe however they had anti seize installed on them

Sent from my iPhone using BimmerApp
 
R
#13 ·
DominguesE30 said:
Hey bee, if you don't mind I would like to add some valuable info.

When pulling the bosch coil pack off the spark plug take extra care. The rubber boot that connects to the spark plug may become brittle.
If a tiny piece breaks good luck trying to fish it out.
Don't ask me how I know this. The lip on my first spark plug boot broke off inside the well. Was there for 30 mins fishing it out.

What ever you do, do not proceed with taking out the spark plug while there is rubber pieces in the well!
It will fall into the cylinder and god know what it will do in there.
... stuff deleted ...
Click to expand...
I had bits of crud fall into the spark plug well too. And no compressed air here at home. I found that "air in a can" for computer etc. dusting worked well. I attached the straw to the nozzle & stuck it into the bottom of the well. It blew the bits out first try.

Regards
RDL
 
#16 ·
BTW, when I removed the passenger-side plastic engine cover over the fuel injection lines, I noticed what 'appears' to be mouse-eaten black insulation over one of the tubes running the length of the engine.

For the life of me, I can't figure out "how" that happened or what caused it.

The pictures were taken in my garage at night so I apologize for the lack of contrast. I'll try to compensate for that by shrinking them to 800x600 (instead of the normal 640x480 pixels).

This shows the insulation "mouse eaten", with scratches on the "pipe" below (which appears to be plastic). I'm not sure WHY the pipe is insulated with thick foam.
Image


Here's another (lousy) shot of the insulated 'pipe'. I could see nothing overt that 'caused' the insulation to wear away down to the pipe. And, I couldn't even tell why the pipe itself would it be insulated?
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Looking for clues as to what caused the wear, I could see nothing sharp or missing from the plastic panels (although some said there are rubber inserts clipped onto the plastic engine panels, I found none.)
Image


What do YOU think could cause wear in this insulated pipe ... and what does this insulated pipe function as anyway?
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Unfortunately, I don't see this particular pipe in the Realoem diagram for Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system

Image
 

Attachments

R
#18 · (Edited)
bluebee said:
BTW, when I removed the passenger-side plastic engine cover over the fuel injection lines, I noticed what 'appears' to be mouse-eaten black insulation over one of the tubes running the length of the engine.

...stuff deleted ...

What do YOU think could cause wear in this insulated pipe ... and what does this insulated pipe function as anyway?

... stuff deleted ...
Click to expand...
EDIT I see Fudman & I replied in parallel. His info is accurate.

It is one of the 4 CCV tubes.
This particular hose connects the two ends of the distibution piece so that flow is balanced from cylinders 1 - 6. Crankcase gases, oil free we hope, are routed from the CCV through the infamous "S" tube up to the distribution piece & then into the inlet manifold - this hose is part of that route.

When I changed my CCV recently, that foam was stiff, weak and crumbly from age & heat. It flaked off when touched. Any chance that prior service in that area bumped the foam & caused it to break away. Regardless, I don't see any reason for concern so long as the hard plastic tube under the foam is vacuum leak tight.

Regards
RDL
 
#17 ·
That is one of your CCV hoses (return pipe?). That is insulated to prevent oil vapors from condensing on the walls of the tube in cold weather. The CCV system is designed so that the oil vapors condense in the CCV and then drain back down into the sump. However, design and reality are often different. That is why the new "winter" CCV kit has the CCV and all hoses insulated.
 
B
#22 ·
Bluebee, are you getting a lot of suction at the oil filler cap, or just moderate? In another thread I read a post recently that a lot of suction indicates a failure of a hose attached to the CCV, resulting in a high vacuum condition under the valve cover. This would be another avenue for air to get into the intake system without going past the MAF, and it could result in too lean a mixture. For the life of me, I can't find the thread, though. It was just in the last couple of days, I think.

I just tested my car by cracking open the oil filler cap and got noticeable, but not powerful, suction.
 
#25 ·
bobdmac said:
I just tested my car by cracking open the oil filler cap and got noticeable, but not powerful, suction.
Click to expand...
Wow. How do we, independently, compare a 'lot' versus 'moderate' suction?

I'd say there is a teeny tiny bit of suction.

In fact, just enough suction to suck a very thin plastic film downward slightly. In the photo above, I 'tapped' the plastic slightly with my finger so that it would show up better in the bright picture; so the actual suction is less than what appears in the photo (poetic license exercised & admitted).

The engine also noticeably changed RPM when I removed the oil filler cap. I really don't think the ccv pipe is breached ... however, I can not at all explain the 'teeth marks' on the black hard plastic pipe either.

BTW, I did spray Brakleen on all things that 'looked' like they might be part of the vacuum apparatus. Only at or near the deeply ensconced throttle body valve did even an almost imperceptible change in RPM occur (if that).

Image
 
#23 ·
You should have 3"-6" of vacuum pressure, as measured by a manometer, at the oil fill cap or the dipstick tube. However, this is not a foolproof means of determining CCV function. Gtxragtop checked mine a few years back and it measured fine. I went ahead and changed my CCV after blowing a huge cloud of black smoke accelerating onto the highway. Other than excess oil consumption and some mayo, I had no other symptoms. Since then, oil consumption is significantly reduced (from a qt every 1.5K to every 5k), the mayo is gone and no smoke.
 
#28 · (Edited)
The mouse-chewed hose is apparently, as stated, not a 'drain' hose but a 'return hose' (aka "top hose") for the CCV.

Here is a picture (the front of the engine is to the right) from here:
- M54 CCV top hose

Image


Another picture showing the return hose & location of the CCV is also there:
- ICV, CCV, Vanos or all three?!

Image


Realoem lists it as #7, "Return pipe" (PN: 11617504536, $33.87):

Image


BTW, I don't have oil consumption, smoky exhaust, oil sludge, or, to my knowledge, excessive vacuum (?).

But, I do have a vacuum leak (obviously, from the codes); and there 'is' weird damage to the ccv insulation.

Tomorrow, I'll take a more accurate picture of the vacuum and I'll look for a balloon if I can find one lying around to try cn90's trick:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cute little trick to diagnose blocked CCV

Fudman said:
You should have 3"-6" of vacuum pressure, as measured by a manometer, at the oil fill cap or the dipstick tube
Click to expand...
I googled for the manometer and found this reference ...
- How to test CCV?

Which suggests this particular manometer:
- Dwyer Slack-Tube Manometer, BMW tool part number 99000001410 (aka BMW PN: 99 00 0 001 410).

The complete kit (including oil-filler-cap-interface) is apparently available from DDM Tuning:
- Genuine OEM BMW Part # 99000001410 C/C VENT VAL TOOL $196.63

But, just the manometer (without the BMW interface components) is available on the net:
Image


There is apparently a service bulletin on how to use it to test the CCV:
refer to service information bulletin number 04 08 98 for further information regarding the slack tube manometer tool ... With all electrical consumers and the air conditioning switched off and engine at operating temperature the reading should indicate from 3.0 - 6.0 inches of water at idle ... A higher than normal crankcase vacuum will cause the crankshaft seals to leak outside air into the crankcase during engine operation. A whistling or howling noise is usually heard coming from the seal areas (front or rear) at idle when this occurs
Click to expand...
Regarding the whistling noise, I'll check tomorrow since I didn't realize I should look for that. Here, are symptoms of a bad CCV according to:
- Crankcase Ventilation System Check For 1994-2007 BMW Engines (1) (2) (3) (4)
[Note: These separate references all have the same text so I ordered them in best to worst presentation format.]

A properly functioning pressure control valve is designed to maintain a slight vacuum (approx. 10-15 mbar) in the crankcase ... A malfunctioning crankcase ventilation valve may cause the following complaints:

  • Engine runs rough
  • Whistling noise from the crankcase ventilation valve
  • Check Engine Light on
    • possible DM faults stored
    • misfire all cylinders
    • oxygen sensor/mixture faults,
    • etc.
Click to expand...
I searched for how to test the CCV, and went back 5 pages into the Bimmerfest record. There was no thread specifically titled as a CCV test page, so, I'll open one up so that we can explore this topic well enough for others to follow easily in our footsteps.

EDIT: Here is the thread opened up:
- How to test the BMW E39 pressure-controlled crankcase ventilation system (CCV)?

Image
 

Attachments

B
#26 ·
I realize my terminology was vague and subjective, but I didn't really have any way to quantify it. However, I think the subsequent posts by Fudman and rdl have clarified it pretty well. Plus, judging by your description of what you did for illustrative purposes, that's not the issue. What kind of gas mileage are you getting? (Not to incite another controversy.) Has it dropped noticeably since you've had the problem?

Nice action shot of brake cleaner spraying, by the way.
 
#31 · (Edited)
bobdmac said:
What kind of gas mileage are you getting?
Click to expand...
I have no idea! I never check my gas mileage.

Besides, I use the verboten low-octane-rated stuff from Costco (I'm ducking already!)
- Engine fuel, i.e., gasoline & octane (1) & "The Gasoline FAQ" & top-tier gas stations (1)

Next fuel fillup, I'll keep records to test the gas mileage (taking into account sig figs):
- What is the tolerance (i.e., accuracy) of our typical miles per gallon (MPG) calculations (1)

bobdmac said:
Nice action shot of brake cleaner spraying, by the way.
Click to expand...
Heh heh. Thanks. It's a balancing act, one hand on the SLR up close to my face (so I can't see except through the lens) and the other hand spraying in the 'general direction' to where I 'intended' to point it (while the Brakleen splatters all over the camera lens like in a bad dinosaur movie).

Here's a shot of the Brakleen aimed directly at the 'mouse-chewed' portion of the CCV return pipe which connects on one end to the "intake manifold" and on the other end to the "connecting line" (which itself, connects to the intake manifold and to the CCV).

Note: I think the realoem diagram has this insulated CCV "return pipe" positioned backward. The "return pipe" seems to connect in the rear of the engine (to the right in this picture) to the intake manifold; and it seems to connect in the front of the engine (to the left in this picture) to the CCV "connecting line" (which itself connects to the intake manifold on its upper end, and to the CCV itself on its lower end).

Image


However, detailed debugging of the CCV is probably off topic for a spark plug DIY, I opened a separate thread (after searching for an existing thread of the same topic) specifically for testing the CCV over here:
- How to test the BMW E39 pressure-controlled crankcase ventilation system (CCV)?

BTW, Rajaie apparently said the following regarding testing the CCV vacuum with a plastic baggy:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cute little trick to diagnose blocked CCV system... (see post #4)

"The crankcase vent valve and 4 associate hoses fail and cause a vacuum leak. The valve gets stuck open and the hoses crack. These last 70-120k miles and usually fail 80-90k miles. Here are a couple diagnoses.
At warm idle, place a small plastic freezer storage bag on its side over the oil fill hole. If the bag sits on top or gets slightly sucked in, ~1", the valve is good. If the bag gets significantly sucked in the hole the valve is stuck open and bad. With the engine off and cold, carefully remove the hose at the valve cover front corner. Blow hard into the hole. You should hear oil bubbling in the oil pan. If you don't hear the bubbling the top or bottom hose is likely cracked. The bottom hose often breaks just below the valve connection. There can also be cracks in the other two hoses."
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#27 ·
Bluebee, I just had another thought. You might need to replace your gas cap to solve this. Here's an interesting article from Popular Mechanics that might explain why. Pertinent quote:

As car manufacturers started to understand emissions better, the number of vacuum lines diminished-but that didn't last long. The EPA started to require that leaking gasoline fumes be reduced to virtually zero, and the EVAP system on every current car is controlled largely by-you guessed it-engine vacuum. When the car is turned off, the system captures fuel vapor in a charcoal canister, then parses the vapors back to the running engine through-you guessed it again-a network of vacuum hoses.
​
 
#29 ·

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#30 ·
Right--it's possible that with your gas cap off, the extreme vacuum from descending a 9% grade with the throttle closed would be enough to suck air in through the evaporative emission system and produce a lean condition that would register a fault code.
 
#32 ·
BTW, while researching the CCV, I found an excellent picture of the 'underside' of the mouse-eaten CCV "return pipe" over here:
- CCV Replacement FYI - M54

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#33 ·
That photo above sparked my imagination in that I can now come up with a tentative hypothesis of WHAT caused that semi-circular shaped 'mouse-eaten' bite out of the CCV "return pipe" foam insulation.

My hypothesis:
- Someone flipped up the "air distribution piece" much as Jason5driver did here.
- In doing so, they 'pinched' the CCV return pipe between one of those prongs sticking out of the air distribution piece and that circular tube sticking up out of what appears to be the intake manifold.

Does that hypothesis sound potentially reasonable for the cause of a semicircular bite out of the M54 CCV return pipe foam insulation?

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#35 ·
I was updating the misfire diagnostic thread today with new information:
- General diagnostic procedure for a single or multi-cylinder E39 intermittent misfire?

Where it says:
Swap the spark plug boots between adjacent cylinders
  • If the misfire moves, replace the spark plug boot
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Now that I've replaced my spark plugs, I have a better idea what is there, and, well, uh, um ... I don't remember 'no spark plug boot.

The coil attached directly to the spark plug, IIRC.

But, maybe the coil was two pieces?

Is it that the bottom half of the coil (see below to the left in the picture), is a removable "spark plug boot"?

Image
 
#36 ·
As for the unanswered question about the separate "spark plug boot" (aka "spark plug socket"), & bearing in mind that Realoem is sometimes wrong, I opened a separate thread over here:
- Does the M54 coil have a separate spark plug boot (or not)?

Image


I did a retest using the "balloon" method suggested by cn90.
Results appear to be:

  • Oil filler cap has slight (about 1/2 inch) suction
    • Also the oil filler tube "gurgles" when I remove the oil filler cap (what does that indicate)?
  • Dipstick guide tube has neither vacuum nor pressure
    • Suction seemed barely minimal or even non existent
    • Pressure seemed non existent
Here is a pic, without any enhancements, of the oil filler vacuum test:
Image


And, here's that same test on the dipstick guide tube:
Image


Lastly, here's my attempt at rubber banding a nitrile glove onto the dipstick guide tube (sorry cn90, I didn't have any balloons handy):
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#39 ·
Just for the record, Mark has noted, from experience, that the Bosch plugs are subject to something called 'blowout', as noted in this thread today:
- did I just drop a cylinder? (Blown plug, please help)

Mark@EAC said:
Lots of folks have reported that the bosch plugs back out after being torqued down. Yours probably backed out a few threads and then the compression of the engine pushed it right out taking the threads with it.
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#40 · (Edited)
For the record, a set of discussions today about the $1,200 savings at 100K miles simply by using 87 AKI over 91 AKI fuel prompted me to look again at my spark plugs shown above for evidence of ping-related damage:
- What factors in cost differences between using regular vs premium fuels on our E39s?

Those original spark plugs above were removed after about 70K miles driven using Costco 87 AKI fuel.

Given those plugs had about 30K miles presumably on 91 AKI with the remainder on 87 AKI Costco fuel ...

Do you see anything negative about those spark plugs that is unusual for 100K miles?
 
#41 ·

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