I am so sorry to everyone get bothers by the caps writing before lol, here is what happened, i have a 2003 530i , i wash the car interior by water and liquid soup, when i turn the car after that, the air conditioner start work on the last fix temperature on high speed fan through the windshield defrost direction, and now i can't turn it off or change the speed or nothing, there no response at all, i am afraid some water and soup get inside the unit and make it act crazy, can i remove the A/C panel to clean what behind the buttons , and how to remove, any photo or video show me how ??
ranchoknight
WHAT YOU ARE DESCRIBING IS THE FAILURE OF THE "FINAL STAGE UNIT". YOU CAN'T PUT WATER ON IT, SINCE IT IS BEHIND THE PANELS. YOU HAVE THE CAR ONLY 1 WEEK, SO YOU DON'T REALLY KNOW IF YOU HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE. BUT THIS PROBLEM COMES AND GOES, UNTIL IT GETS REALLY BAD AND THEN IT STAYS ON THE FULL BLOW.OK HERE THE STORY, I BOUGHT THIS 2003 530I LAST WEEK WHICH IS DREAM COME TRUE TO ME :bigpimp: , THE CAR DRIVE WONDERFULLY AND EVERYTHING WORK AS DREAM, I DECIDED TO CLEAN THE INTERIOR WITH WATER AND SOUP TODAY AND WHEN I DID FINISH CLEANING AND TURN ON THE CAR, THE AC START TO WORK ON HIGH SPEED ON THE LAST TEMPERATURE I SET LAST TIME I USED THE AC, I TRY TO TURN IT OFF OR REDUCE THE FAN SPEED BUT NOTHING CHANGE, NO BUTTONS OF THE AIR CONDITION UNIT RESPOND, I THINK THE UNIT GET SOME WATER INSIDE AND I DON'T KNOW WHAT I SHOULD DO NOW :dunno: :bawling:
CONSIDERING THAT YOU ARE NOT FAMILIAR WITH THE CAR THAT MUCH YET, SET YOUR TEMP TO AN AVERAGE TEMP LIKE 70. PRESS "AUTO" AND SEE IF THE FAN SPEED GOES DOWN ON THE DISPLAY.
HERE IS A POSTING THAT SHOWS YOU WHERE IT IS AND HOW TO CHANGE IT http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=387279
HERE IS A diy http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143393
AND HERE IS A THREAD WHERE YOU CAN FIND ALMOST ANYTHING YOU WANT http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165198
mw
FIRST THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE FAST RESPOND
i really did my homework and i was studying for the last 12 hour everything about the "FINAL STAGE UNIT" and it is not match my case , because my problem is the A/C unit is on all the time on one high speed and fix temperture and just the windshield defrost is on , i can't active any other button on the unit, not Auto OR change the air flow direction, it sound like the unit buttons panel not working, DO YOU THINK THE UNIT GET ELECTRIC SHOCK FROM THE WATER AND SOUP , HOW TO FIX THAT ???
P.S. i did check the fusees and all are fine
i really did my homework and i was studying for the last 12 hour everything about the "FINAL STAGE UNIT" and it is not match my case , because my problem is the A/C unit is on all the time on one high speed and fix temperture and just the windshield defrost is on , i can't active any other button on the unit, not Auto OR change the air flow direction, it sound like the unit buttons panel not working, DO YOU THINK THE UNIT GET ELECTRIC SHOCK FROM THE WATER AND SOUP , HOW TO FIX THAT ???
P.S. i did check the fusees and all are fine
Don't use caps lock. In fact, in this case, I think it's probably best to pry that button off your keyboard. All-caps posts with poor punctuation are flat-out rude.
The first post hurts my eyes so I don't know the full story, but sounds like the control module is fried. The replacement part may need to be coded to your car.
Keep the soup (and other food) out if the car. It'll make it a lot more reliable.
The first post hurts my eyes so I don't know the full story, but sounds like the control module is fried. The replacement part may need to be coded to your car.
Keep the soup (and other food) out if the car. It'll make it a lot more reliable.
if you spilt soup & water on the IHKA panel (that's your AC/heat control unit)...regardless of how well you cleaned up on the outside..there are cracks, crevices, and opening around the buttons and vents...and unless you took the panel off...there is residual soup still inside the IHKA.
You may have a stuck MAX button...or a gummed up Rapid Defrost button...both have auto programming that turns the fan to the highest speed setting...or the salt from the soup may have disrupted some of the runs on the circuit board. I would remove the IHKA and search for the instructions on how to open it up...then get your rubbing alcohol, electronics cleaner, Q-tips, or electronic swabs...and get to cleaning the parts that you can't see.
Good luck.
BTW: I'm sorry for the sandbagging you're getting...but you brought it on yourself by writing in all caps...then not being clear and to the point as to what really happened. It took me a double reading (which was hard to do because of the ALL CAPS) to get to the point that you "accidentally" spilt soup inside the car. I was taking you at your word that you washed the interior with water...and assumed "soup" was some type of special cleaner. :dunno:
Also, I hope the lesson was learned that eating inside a BMW is not as easy/simple as doing so in an American or Asian made car. The e39 was the first 5 series in BMW history that actually had cup holders installed as a standard item...and that took a decade or more of Americans begging for them. German culture doesn't really find them partaking in a lot of dine-n-drive situations. Driving 120 MPH on the Autobahn while eating soup and downing a 48 oz Big Gulp isn't really a safe thing to do. So these firsts generation "can holders" are pretty much worthless...and you'll be better off in the long run if you glue them shut or use them infrequent as possible.
You may have a stuck MAX button...or a gummed up Rapid Defrost button...both have auto programming that turns the fan to the highest speed setting...or the salt from the soup may have disrupted some of the runs on the circuit board. I would remove the IHKA and search for the instructions on how to open it up...then get your rubbing alcohol, electronics cleaner, Q-tips, or electronic swabs...and get to cleaning the parts that you can't see.
(although this is an e38 IHKA panel...the Rapid Defrost Button has the same icon on it as does the e39's IHKA panel)
![Image]()
Good luck.
BTW: I'm sorry for the sandbagging you're getting...but you brought it on yourself by writing in all caps...then not being clear and to the point as to what really happened. It took me a double reading (which was hard to do because of the ALL CAPS) to get to the point that you "accidentally" spilt soup inside the car. I was taking you at your word that you washed the interior with water...and assumed "soup" was some type of special cleaner. :dunno:
Also, I hope the lesson was learned that eating inside a BMW is not as easy/simple as doing so in an American or Asian made car. The e39 was the first 5 series in BMW history that actually had cup holders installed as a standard item...and that took a decade or more of Americans begging for them. German culture doesn't really find them partaking in a lot of dine-n-drive situations. Driving 120 MPH on the Autobahn while eating soup and downing a 48 oz Big Gulp isn't really a safe thing to do.
So these firsts generation "can holders" are pretty much worthless...and you'll be better off in the long run if you glue them shut or use them infrequent as possible. thank you QSilver7 very much and everyone else try to help me , can you please give me directions to remove the IHKA panel (AC/heat control unit panel ) i really search everywhere but not really useful way, i don't wanna break the unit trying to clean it , some tips suggest to pull off the unit by thin sharp tip , other suggest to remove the radio or cup-holder first then push the A/C unite from back, but no one really show a pictures or clear diagram to do it just talk in general , i tried today to remove the cup holder and i remove the both screws but still something prevent it from moving forward , please help me , thanks .
This post today shows one solution to erratic AC operation:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > A/C Fan Troubleshooting
- How to troubleshoot a bad FSU final stage unit (1) and how to build a test jig for your FSR final stage resistor (1) & how to autopsy or repair solder cracks in your blower motor resistor (1) & how to replace your HVAC blower resistor (1) & what FSU is the right one to buy (1) & how to remove the IHKA heater air conditioning control panel to clean the circuit board (1) & how to check the HVAC (IHKA) sampling fan (1) & how to correctly measure cockpit AC temperature (1) & where is the HVAC/IHKA solar sensor located (1) & where to find your low pressure airconditioning recharge port (1) & how to recharge or refill your A/C system for $20 (1) & what refrigerant PAG oil to use (1) & how to diagnose A / C compressor knocking sounds (1) & how to learn about (1) and set up your air conditioning (1) & how to replace the activated charcoal cabin air filter (1) & what cabin filter to buy (1) & cn90's inexpensive cabin filter retrofit (1) & everything there is to know about stinky gym sock AC odors (1) & R134a conversion information (1) & air conditioner compressor replacement DIYs (1) or compressor rebuilds (1) or ac hose rebuilding services (1) & how to remove the trim and bracket holding the MID & HVAC/IHKA panels (1) & how to replace just the IHKA button (1) & how to change OBC MID IHKA KTMP temperature from degrees Celcius to Fahrenheit (1) & how to diagnose lack of HVAC/IHKA heater core heat with cooling system (auxiliary pump) at idle (1)
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > A/C Fan Troubleshooting
See also:Hey guys I appreciate your help in troubleshooting this issue. I know there are millions of threads about this but I just wanted to post my solution to possibly help new users.
I bought a used hvac control unit from ebay for $80 and installed it this morning. I now have cold air and everything else including the air staying on after shut down is now working as intended.
![Image]()
- How to troubleshoot a bad FSU final stage unit (1) and how to build a test jig for your FSR final stage resistor (1) & how to autopsy or repair solder cracks in your blower motor resistor (1) & how to replace your HVAC blower resistor (1) & what FSU is the right one to buy (1) & how to remove the IHKA heater air conditioning control panel to clean the circuit board (1) & how to check the HVAC (IHKA) sampling fan (1) & how to correctly measure cockpit AC temperature (1) & where is the HVAC/IHKA solar sensor located (1) & where to find your low pressure airconditioning recharge port (1) & how to recharge or refill your A/C system for $20 (1) & what refrigerant PAG oil to use (1) & how to diagnose A / C compressor knocking sounds (1) & how to learn about (1) and set up your air conditioning (1) & how to replace the activated charcoal cabin air filter (1) & what cabin filter to buy (1) & cn90's inexpensive cabin filter retrofit (1) & everything there is to know about stinky gym sock AC odors (1) & R134a conversion information (1) & air conditioner compressor replacement DIYs (1) or compressor rebuilds (1) or ac hose rebuilding services (1) & how to remove the trim and bracket holding the MID & HVAC/IHKA panels (1) & how to replace just the IHKA button (1) & how to change OBC MID IHKA KTMP temperature from degrees Celcius to Fahrenheit (1) & how to diagnose lack of HVAC/IHKA heater core heat with cooling system (auxiliary pump) at idle (1)
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