Instrument Cluster problems... It intermittently works

Adam B · Aug 20, 2014

Hey everyone,

I've got a 1997 523i. I just got to the UK on assignment and I went ahead and bought the car with a minor problem: the instrument cluster was failing. It's still perfectly drivable, so I didn't care.

Anyway, it works just fine... sometimes. Most of the time the entire cluster just doesn't indicate anything. It still lights up when it's like this. Sometimes it does work, and it works perfectly fine aside from telling my that I have a bad rear right brake/taillight. They're both fine.

I've already done my research and replaced the ignition switch, but there was no sign of shorting or arcing on it, and the new one didn't fix anything. I've looked and looked, but I can't seem to find another solution for this problem. My ultimate last resort is to give it to a local auto electric shop so they can send the cluster away to be repaired, but they want 220 GBP.

Also, my fog lights all stopped working at some point, and the lights around the selector switch don't even light up. Not sure if it's unrelated or not, but I'm just glad it's summer and I don't really need them at the moment.

Any ideas?

edjack · Aug 20, 2014

Measure the overnight battery voltage before starting the car, and after. Report back.

Adam B · Aug 20, 2014

I don't currently have a multimeter. I'll probably be able to pick one up in the next couple of days. Could it just be a bad battery?

bluebee · Aug 20, 2014

You can't survive owning a bimmer without a $25 multimeter.

Typing /tools f3 in the bestlinks nets this, which will guide you toward what you need:
Common tools needed for the E39 & an obdii DTC scanner & an SRS reset tool & accurate measurement tools & specialty cooling system tools

Remember, the tools are free:

What to tell those who haven't yet bonded with their E39 who feel they don't have time, money, expertise, or tools to DIY & why the tools are free when they do so (1)

Adam B · Sep 6, 2014

I just got a multimeter and tested the overnight battery voltage. It was at about 12.4 before startup, dropped to 11.5ish during startup, and then charged up to above 14 volts within about 15 seconds. Granted, this was during one of the periods when the instrument cluster is working. I actually drove on the highway about an hour to and from, and experienced no issues with the cluster. Weird.

I guess I'll just test the voltage again when it's not working?

Adam B · Sep 29, 2014

Well I did some looking around and apparently the last person to change the battery put in a 64 a/hr instead of 70 a/hr like the manual calls for. Figured that was the issue so I got a new battery, but no luck. I'd really like some help here please

540 M-Sport · Sep 30, 2014

The fact that you also have tail lights out warnings, along with no fog lights is kind of leaning toward a possible issue with the light control module. I would NOT have the auto electric shop send out the cluster without verifying with a known good one, that this will resolve your issue.

Adam B · Oct 8, 2014

I pulled out the IKE and realized that the auto electric shop had probably left the fog light plug disconnected. I reconnected it and the fog lights are working fine. I wouldn't know whether I have the taillight warning still or not, since the cluster just doesn't even come on anymore. All exterior lights are operational, though. There were no connection issues with the pins on the back of the cluster; I wouldn't know anything about the condition of the connections on the inside, since I didn't have time to take it completely apart when I took it out.

Any thoughts?

bluebee · Oct 8, 2014

This is a classic intermittent electrical problem.

You have to become a hunter.
Your prey, is the culprit you're after.

How do you hunt?
Your second weapon is your multimeter, which is your eyes and ears as you track down the prey.

The first weapon is to understand the habits of your prey.
- BMW_IKE_e38_e39_e53_Instrument_Cluster_Electronics.pdf (1.02 MB, 58 views)

How does the instrument cluster get it's electrical signals? Are they the correct signals?

Work backward from the instrument cluster.

Your third weapon is your own eyes. Sure, you can't see electricity (that's why you have the second weapon); but you can see frayed wires that are intermittent.

Me? If I had this problem?
I'd check the easy stuff first (fuses, grounds, charging system, etc.), and then, I'd bite the bullet and go for the hard stuff.

I'd remove the instrument cluster, snap a few photos, especially of the connections, and then put it back together after measuring all that I could of those connections.

Here's how to check the fuses (found by typing /fuse f3 in the bestlinks):
- One user's attempt to locate, describe, and photograph all fuses and relays in the BMW E39 with a picture of every fuse & relay (1)

And here's how to check the charging system (found by typing /alternator f3 in the bestlinks):
- DIY how to test a BMW E39 battery & alternator

And here's how to test the cluster (found by typing /cluster f3 in the bestlinks)::
- Quickie telephone verbal instructions for unlocking the high instrument cluster on the E39 (1)

Here's how to remove the cluster (found with the above search):
- How to remove the E39 instrument cluster (1)

Adam B · Oct 13, 2014

Thanks, bluebee, for the good info! I'm reading up on it now.

I do have an update, though: on a two-hour long road trip, maybe an hour and a half into the journey home, there was a small click (possibly a small relay of some sort, but it didn't sound quite as mechanical) and the instrument cluster came to life. It lasted maybe only ten seconds.

Does this help anyone?

Also, I have no issues removing the instrument cluster. Would you warn against trying to take it apart myself to find any bad connections?

Instrument Cluster problems... It intermittently works

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