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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 02-28-2013, 10:55 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,012
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Picture & amperage & description of every single fuse & relay in the BMW E39

EDIT: Added excellent fuse descriptions from Steve530 from post #4 on 3/3/2012.
EDIT: Added cross references to specific fuse-related posts by QSilver7, RDL, cn90, & JimLev 3/13/2013.
EDIT: Added nice closeup of EF1 to EF5 by tobesscooby 4/6/2013.
EDIT: Added better descriptions for F107 to F114 by rdl on 4/8/2013 (and added fuse amperages for the unknown fuses, again, as per rdl).

Let's see if we can list, describe, locate, and show a photo of every fuse and relay in the BMW E39, so that we all benefit.
Below, (from this quest to locate a parasite), is as far as I've been able to get detailing every single fuse in my 2002 525i.

(Note that F1 to F5 exist in two different locations, just to confuse you, so I'll refer to the ebox ones as EF1 to EF5, and the glovebox ones as F1-F5).

There are SIX fuse box locations in my 2002 BMW 525i E39 (here is a 1997 540i fuse location chart):
  • EF1 to EF5 <= at the back of the ebox under the passenger side cabin air filter housing (5 fuse spots)
  • F1 to F45 <= in the glove compartment top panel (45 fuse spots)
  • F46 to F66 <= directly above the battery (21 fuse spots)
  • F67 to F74 <= don't exist
  • F75 to F76 <= behind the glove compartment (2 fuse spots)
  • F77 to F99 <= don't exist
  • F100 to F106 <= above the battery positive terminal (7 fuse spots)
  • F107 to F114 <= under passenger side front seat carpet (8 fuse spots
IN THE White E-BOX UNDER PASSENGER SIDE CABIN AIR FILTER:
EF1 = 30A, MAF, Cam sensor #1, DME, T-Stat, Evap emission valve (some say it's 30A - DME, Injectors, SMG Hydraulic unit)
EF2 = 30A, Fuel injectors, Both Vanos solenoids, Cam sensor #2, SAS pump electrical valve (some say it's 30A - DME, Idle control valve, Fuel tank ventilation valve, Fuel pump)
EF3 = 20A, Cam sensors, MAF, Crank Sensor, Heated O2 sensors (some say it's 30A, others say 25A - E-box fan, Transmission RPM sensor, CPS, MAF sensor, Fuel pump relay, SAP relay, A/C Compressor relay, Fuel tank leakage diagnostic module, SMG selector lever)
EF4 = 30A, DME (some say it's 30A - Oxygen sensors and oxygen sensor heater circuits)
EF5 = 30A, Unloader relay, power to coils (some say it's 30A - Fuel injector relay)

Note: There is a black or white cap enshrouding the five ebox fuses EF1 to EF5, which needs to be removed as explained by RDL in this thread.

Photo below courtesy of JimLev shows the white cap still in place enshrouding the five ebox fuses:

---
IN THE ROOF PANEL OF THE GLOVEBOX:
F1 = 30A, Windscreen wiper
F2 = 30A, Headlight cleaning system, Windscreen washer system
F3 = 15A, Horn
F4 = 20A, Passenger comp/trunk lighting, Windscreen washer system
F5 = 20A, Sliding tilt/roof
F6 = 30A, Outside mirror adjustment, Central locking system, Window lift (rdl says fuse F6 supplies the passenger door module power only for both windows and locking motor, no other door; F6 enters the door via connector X256 pin 26.)
F7 = 30A, Cigarette lighter
F8 = 25A, ABS/ASC Control Module (Note: F8 was empty in my 2002 525i)
F9 = 15A, Air conditioner, Heated washer jets [JimLev says it handles the heated washer jets and the Check Control Module panel]
F10 = 30A, Passenger seat adjustment
F11 = 7.5A, Servotronic
F12 = 5A, Immobilizer
F13 = 30A, Driver seat adjustment, Steering column adjustment [JimLev says F13 goes to all of the motors in the drivers seat and the two steering column adjuster motors in a left hand drive gas engine E39 built after 9/'99] [cn90 shows an F13 trick here]
F14 = 5A, Engine control
F15 = 7.5A, Diagnosis plug, Engine control (JimLev adds: Oil level sensor, Data connector under the hood next to the ABS module (no data conn after ~6/2000), Alternator, Temp switch in DME box for cooling fan in bottom of DME box, Range switch for automatic tranny)
F16 = 5A, Light module
F17 = 10A, ABS, Automatic stability control
F18 = 5A, Instrument cluster
F19 = 5A, (empty) Electronic damper control [QSilver7 says F19 is in-between the ignition switch and an unloader relay terminal 15]
F20 = 7.5A, Air conditioner, Heated rear window, Heater, Tyre pressure control system [JimLev says F20 and F105 power relay K201, which itself gets power from F75]
F21 = 5A, Anti-glare inside mirror, Driver seat adjustment, Garage door opener [JimLev says F21 also powers the current cutoff relay, garage door opener, rear view mirror, park distance control module, and the cig lighter relay]
F22 = 25A, Fuel pump
F23 = 7.5A, (empty in my 2002 525i) Heater, Rear centre arm rest
F24 = 5A, Instrument cluster, Shifting gate illumination, Tyre pressure control system
F25 = 7.5A, Multi-information display, Radio
F26 = 5A, Wiper Relay I & Wiper Relay II (Note: F26 was empty in my 2002 525i)
F27 = 30A, Central locking system, Window lift
F28 = 15A, (empty in my 2002 525i) Transmission control, diesel
F29 = 30A, Central locking system, Outside mirror adjustment, Window lift
F30 = 25A, ABS
F31 = 10A, ABS, Automatic stability control, Fuel pump
F32 = 25A, Active seat, Electric seat heating, Roller sun blind
F33 = Open (empty in my 2002 525i)
F34 = 10A, Heated steering wheel (empty)
F35 = 5A,(empty in my 2002 525i) Rear A/C blower
F36 = Open (empty in my 2002 525i)
F37 = 5A, Immobilizer
F38 = 5A, Horn, Shifting gate illumination
F39 = 7.5A, Charging socket, Courtesy mirror illumination
F40 = 5A, Airbag, Instrument cluster
F41 = 5A, Brake light, Light module
F42 = 5A, Airbag
F43 = 5A, (Telephone), (On-board monitor), Radio, (Rear Washer) (Rear washer pump)
F44 = 5A, Multi-function steering wheel, MID, Radio, (Telephone)
F45 = 7.5A, Roller sun blind


IN TRUNK BATTERY COMPARTMENT:
F46 = 15A, Blower relay/Parked Car ventilation/Receiever, parked car ventilation (Note: F46 was empty in my 2002 525i)
F47 = 20A,(empty in my 2002 525i) Additional heater, independent heater
F48 = 5A, Anti-theft alarm system
F49 = 30A, (empty in my 2002 525i) Air suspension
F50 = 7.5A, (empty in my 2002 525i) Air suspension
F51 = 30A, (empty in my 2002 525i) Rear cigarette lighter
F52 = 30A, (empty in my 2002 525i) Cigarette lighter (AUS)
F53 = 7.5A, Central locking system [fuel door solenoid issue, which disables the central locking system] [JimLev adds Rear lid motor relay K70, Central locking & fuel door relay K121, Window motor relay K90, Diversity amp or antenna amp]
F54 = 25A, (empty) M5 Fuel pump
F55 = 20A, (empty) Rear washer, Rear washer pump
F56 = 30A, (On-board monitor), (CD changer), Radio, (Navigation system) [Black540eye adds On-board Monitor, Radio, Video Module, CD Changer, Amplifier, GPS Control Module, GPS Receiver]
F57 = 10A, (Telephone)
F58 = 10A, (On-board monitor), (Telephone), Radio, (Navigation system)
F59 = 20A, (empty) Trailer socket
F60 = 50A, (empty) Elecronic damper control
F61 = 5A,Park distance control module/ Seat heater switch, left rear/ Seat heater switch. right rear (empty in my 2002 525i)
F62 = Open (empty in my 2002 525i)
F63 = 7.5A, Radio relay/ Loud alarm relay/ Transparency relay/ Alarm control unit (empty in my 2002 525i)
F64 = 30A, On-board monitor/ Radio CD changer/ Amplifier/ GPS receiver (empty in my 2002 525i)
F65 = 10A, Transceiver (empty in my 2002 525i)
F66 = 40A, heated rear window


THESE DO NOT EXIST:
F67 = (does not exist in the E39)
F68 = (does not exist in the E39)
F69 = (does not exist in the E39)
F70 = (does not exist in the E39)
F71 = (does not exist in the E39)
F72 = (does not exist in the E39)
F73 = (does not exist in the E39)
F74 = (does not exist in the E39)

BEHIND GLOVEBOX (look from underneath):
F75 = 50A, Auxiliary fan (red) [QSilver7 says the aux fan is the electric fan in front of the radiator which also goes on when the AC is initiated.]
F76 = 40A, Heater blower (yellow) [cn90 says it should have 12V when HVAC is turned on][QSilver7 says the heater blower controls the air velocity for the cabin/interior HVAC system.]

Neither of these huge fuses is easy to remove or put back (due to the cramped location), but luckily the yellow one is the one aft, which is easier than the red to remove.


THESE DO NOT EXIST:
F77 = (does not exist in the E39)
F78 = (does not exist in the E39)
F79 = (does not exist in the E39)
F80 = (does not exist in the E39)
F81 = (does not exist in the E39)
F82 = (does not exist in the E39)
F83 = (does not exist in the E39)
F84 = (does not exist in the E39)
F85 = (does not exist in the E39)
F86 = (does not exist in the E39)
F87 = (does not exist in the E39)
F88 = (does not exist in the E39)
F89 = (does not exist in the E39)
F90 = (does not exist in the E39)
F91 = (does not exist in the E39)
F92 = (does not exist in the E39)
F93 = (does not exist in the E39)
F94 = (does not exist in the E39)
F95 = (does not exist in the E39)
F96 = (does not exist in the E39)
F97 = (does not exist in the E39)
F98 = (does not exist in the E39)
F99 = (does not exist in the E39)

ABOVE BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL:
F100 = 200A, Fuse panel 4, F107-F114
F101 = 80A, Power supply for fuses F46-F50 and F66
F102 = 80A, Power supply for fuses F51-F55 [wiring diagram here]
F103 = 50A, Open
F104 = 50A, Unloader relay terminal 15
F105 = 100A [JimLev says F20 and F105 power relay K201, which itself gets power from F75] (rdl says his F105 is 100A)
F106 = 100A, F75, Engine cooling fan relay stage 3


UNDER PASSENGER SEAT: (see more details in this thread & this thread)
F107 = 50A, SAS airpump Special Fuse: BMW PN 6113836590 (rdl says it's the secondary air relay fuse)
F108 = 50A, [QSilver7 says this is for the ABS/DSC control unit] (rdl says it's the "motor relay") (rdl clarifies that the F108 "motor relay" fuse supplies ASC or DSC) (rdl says his F108 is 50A)
F109 = 80A, [QSilver7 says this is for the DME (motor electronics)] (rdl says it fuses the Ebox EF1 and the DME relay in the ebox) (rdl says his F109 is 80A)
F110 = 80A, Power supply F1-F12 and F22-F26 (rdl says this fuses about 17 fuses, up to F45) found in the glovebox)
F111 = 50A, Data link connector/ Ignition switch (rdl confirms this is the ignition switch fuse)
F112 = 80A, Light control module (rdl confirms this is the LCM fuse)
F113 = 80A, Power supply F13 and F27-F30/ Light Module (rdl says it fuses the LCM and several fuses in glovebox plus in some cars a "closed-circuit current cutout relay" which then feeds a fuse in glovebox)
F114 = 50A, Data link connector/ Ignition switch (rdl confirms this is for the ignition switch and diagnostic plug)

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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 04-08-2013 at 07:47 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-28-2013, 10:56 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,012
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
I'll start putting the relays here so this post #2 is a work in progress (WIP).

There are (up to) 41 relays? in 3? relay locations in the BMW E39:
  • Passenger side engine bay ebox <== ABS, wipers, fuel injectors, DME, AUX, SAP
  • Behind the glove box <== fuel pump (after & including 2001), blower motor,
  • Battery compartment in trunk <== fuel pump (before 2001), unloader, defogger, central locking, fuel door lock actuator?
Let's list all the relays we can:
  1. K? = aux fan relay (1)
  2. K4 = interior heater blower motor relay (1)
  3. K5 = does not exist
  4. K6 = headlight cleaning relay (1)
  5. K? = starter motor relay (1) (2)
  6. K13 = rear window defogger relay
  7. K36 = first wiper relay (1) (2)
  8. K37 = second wiper relay (1)
  9. K96 = fuel pump relay (1) (2) <== location changed in 2001
  10. K? = wiper relay (1)
  11. K? = unloader relay (1)
  12. K? = ABS control module relay
  13. K6304 = secondary air pump relay (1) (2)
  14. K? = fuel injector relay
  15. K? = DME relay
  16. K? = fuel door lock actuator (2)
  17. K? = ?
Let's annotate the pictures (in the end, we should clean this section up to have only a few pictures with all the relays labeled).
WIP: Right now it's a mess as I gather up the relevant photos.




...





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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 04-08-2013 at 01:40 PM.
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  #3  
Old 03-01-2013, 11:09 AM
five.two.five five.two.five is offline
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Location: Los Angeles, Ca
 
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Posts: 219
Mein Auto: 2002 525I
Bluebee, very nicely done. Thank you for your great contribution.
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  #4  
Old 03-01-2013, 08:06 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 530i
From the Bentley manual:

F8 = 25A, ABS/ASC Control Module
F26 = 5A, Wiper Relay I/Wiper Relay II
F33 = Open
F36 = Open
F46 = 15A, Blower relay/Parked Car ventilation/Receiever, parked car ventilation
F61 = 5A,Park distance control module/ Seat heater switch, left rear/ Seat heater switch. right rear
F62 = Open
F63 = 7.5A, Radio relay/ Loud alarm relay/ Transparency relay/ Alarm control unit
F64 = 30A, On-board monitor/ Radio CD changer/ Amplifier/ GPS receiver
F65 = 10A, Transceiver
F100 = 200A, Fuse panel 4, F107-F114
F101 = 80A, Power supply for fuses F46-F50 and F66
F102 = 80A, Power supply for fuses F51-F55
F103 = 50A, Open
F104 = 50A, Unloader relay terminal 15
F106 = 100A, F75, Engine cooling fan relay stage 3
F110 = 80A, Power supply F1-F12 and F22-F26
F111 = 50A, Data link connector/ Ignition switch
F112 = 80A, Light control module
F113 = 80A, Power supply F13 and F27-F30/ Light Module
F114 = 50A, Data link connector/ Ignition switch
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  #5  
Old 03-19-2013, 06:46 AM
siddly siddly is offline
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I just love this forum, you guys are great. keep up the good work!
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  #6  
Old 04-08-2013, 07:55 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
To the next person who opens up the ebox, would you kindly look at the wire colors going into one end of the five-set fuse block?

That way, we can determine which of those five is EF1, versus EF5.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #7  
Old 05-01-2013, 05:18 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I was looking in the bestlinks to help this guy find switched power today:
- > E39 (1997 - 2003) > where would you guys pull switched ignition power for an indash n7 install?

... when I spied this nice picture of the additional ebox fuses, added for a cooling fan, so I include them below, so it's all in the same spot for others to benefit from easily:


See also:
- Where to find an E39 wiring diagram specific to your model (1) (2) (3) (4) & understanding European wiring diagrams (pdf) & where to find all E39 fuse boxes (1) (2) & adding new fuses & wiring in the engine bay (1) & all about the BMW Glovebox Flashlight Cigarette Lighter Power Adapter (1) (2) (3) & how to install a Valentine or Escort radar detector (1) (2)
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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #8  
Old 05-01-2013, 05:20 PM
DomS DomS is offline
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This is incredible. Thank you so much for this amazing contribution.
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  #9  
Old 05-02-2013, 12:09 AM
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540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
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Interesting and could be very helpful in the future, thanks!

I will say that I have NEVER replaced a single fuse or relay in my entire car ...it is now 12 years old (2001 540). First car to say that about. Even my Honda required a relay replacement or two after several years of use.
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  #10  
Old 05-03-2013, 10:18 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by 540 M-Sport View Post
I have NEVER replaced a single fuse or relay in my entire car ...
Good point.
Neither have I ever had a blown fuse or relay.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #11  
Old 05-22-2013, 10:03 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
For the related record, there was a good discussion of how to remove a stuck ebox cover over here today:
- Fuse box under cabin filter in engine compartment

See also:
- Request clarification of what is inside the ebox under the passenger cabin air filter
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #12  
Old 07-30-2013, 07:38 PM
tapfumam tapfumam is offline
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Mein Auto: 2003 530i
How do you open that cap , i am having a hard time and am afraid i dont want to break the cap off it unclips but just wont come off
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  #13  
Old 08-14-2013, 03:04 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by tapfumam View Post
How do you open that cap , i am having a hard time and am afraid i dont want to break the cap off it unclips but just wont come off
I still haven't gotten mine open (it wasn't worth breaking anything); but most people say you just need to use some force in the back where it sticks.

Regarding fuses, apparently the specific word "flashlight" fuse wasn't listed in this thread yet, because it showed up as a "charging socket"; but, it appears to be fuse $39, so, I added the description below for keyword searches to find the "BMW flashlight fuse".
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > DIY: Hard wire 'switched' cigarette lighter /power socket, keeping the flashlight

Quote:
Originally Posted by professorman View Post
any idea, which fuse is the flashlight?
F39 = 7.5A, flashlight charging socket, courtesy mirror illumination
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 08-15-2013 at 10:22 AM.
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  #14  
Old 08-14-2013, 05:43 PM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
Under the lift arms
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why isnt this a sticky?

this is definitely .. top 10 of your post blue
This can help so many nuggets out

as far as post 13 goes... right above..

the negative and postive is only a matter of switching the leads...

If the red and black were switched around... you would get the opposite reading with same number FYI
why because its a two pole DC reading
In this particular pic Brown is ground and purple with black tracer is hot.. as the picture shows.. you will get that reading in a Positive format
BUT!!
if you were to switch the red and black leads of that fluk meter.. you will get the same reading in negative... Which isnt a problem... Just letting you know that, that read is the same


12 Volt DC
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Last edited by Burning2nd; 08-14-2013 at 05:51 PM.
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  #15  
Old 09-09-2013, 11:41 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codytheoutlaw View Post
The 540 has 4 relays in the ECU box: blue, light green, beige, and orange.
It seems the ebox is vastly different, with respect to relays, depending on the year, model, and transmission of the E39.

For example, here's a picture of the 99 540i ebox, from this thread:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Another ABS problem thread. (I have searched)

Do we know the purpose of those four relays in the older 540i?
Here's just a guess - but I don't have a 540i to check against:
  • blue = K? = ?
  • light green = K6300 ? = DME Relay ?
  • beige = K94 ? = wiper motor relay ?
  • orange = K6304 ? = Secondary Air Pump Relay ?


EDIT:
By way of comparison, from this thread, we see JimLev's 2000 540i 6 speed ebox:

Yet, this is from a 97 528 ebox:

And this is from JimLev's thread, for a 97 automatic:

And this is cn90's 1998 528i 5-speed:

Here is apparently a BMW E39 523 1998 (must be 528i) from here:

And ...
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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 09-10-2013 at 12:34 AM.
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  #16  
Old 09-24-2013, 10:31 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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It seems many of us have a problem getting the passenger side ebox cover off, and then the little fusebox cover off ... as shown in this thread today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Punisher9113 View Post
This is a brief question on how to remove the cover on the fuse box in the ebox of an E39 2003 525i.

I suspect that fuse 4 may be blown due to the fact that all 4 O2 sensor heater codes came up at the same time even after replacing the O2 sensors.
I believe its fuse 4 of the DME fuses as that fuse governs the circuit connecting the DME and the O2 sensors.

Does anybody know how to remove the cover to pull out the fuses and take a look?
Quote:
Originally Posted by edjack View Post
Remove the right side cabin filter assembly. Remove the bolts holding the e-box cover on. It may be a little difficult to pop open, since there is a gasket on the lid.

When replacing the lid, smear a little anti-seize on the bolt threads.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Punisher9113 View Post
Hey Ed I got that far but the little box that holds the DME fuses has yet again bested me. Do you know how to get that one open?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Typing /ebox F3 in the VERY best of E39 Links nets this, which the OP has already surmounted:
- How to open the BMW E39 white e-box under the passenger side cabin air filter ebox (1)

Now that the ebox cover is off, the next trick is to get the fuse cover off:

And, once that cover is off, it would be nice if the OP can clarify exactly which fuse is which, based on this thread:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Picture & amperage & description of every single fuse & relay in the BMW E39
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 09-24-2013 at 10:37 PM.
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  #17  
Old 09-27-2013, 12:12 AM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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You remove the fuse holder cover by sticking a comparably sized flat-head screwdriver tip into that small slot on one corner and pushing with that and with your fingers to slide the cover toward the other end, in the direction of the firewall. Some people might prefer to do this with the holder still clipped into place in the e-box bracket.

On my car, the fuse holder is fully populated but the fuse closest to the slotted corner is apparently a spare because there are no connectors underneath for it to plug into.

Going on memory here but once the cover is off, the upper part of the fuse holder lifts out with the fuses. They fall out fairly easily after that.
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  #18  
Old 09-27-2013, 10:23 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
You remove the fuse holder cover by sticking a comparably sized flat-head screwdriver tip into that small slot on one corner
Since I never managed to get my ebox cover off (I was just curious so I didn't try after it resisted), I have never seen (nor noticed in the pictures) that little slot you're mentioning; but I clearly see it in the picture above - so - this is good information for this reference thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
the fuse closest to the slotted corner is apparently a spare
That's interesting because, at least on my bimmer, all five slots are spoken for:

Given the symmetry, my question has always been which end is EF1?
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #19  
Old 09-27-2013, 10:43 AM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Since I never managed to get my ebox cover off .....
I recall that you were of the view that the e-box lid has some hidden clips underneath that are preventing yours from coming off.

The two rear corners of my lid had other problems the first time I removed it. The engine-side bolt was frozen with the threaded ferrule insert underneath, so I had to spin it all out as I lifted that corner by hand. (The ferrule was free-spinning in the plastic base.)

The other three bolts gave no trouble but the black plastic cowling over the rear, outer corner of the lid was blocking it from lifting ... until I flexed the cowling a bit. The lid did not have any other fastener-type fittings underneath.

Having removed the lid and unplugged everything in the e-box more than once, I think it would not be too hard to replace my e-box with a new one, but I just keep using anti seize on the bolts and being careful to only snug them down.

Incidentally, I noticed that the pic of JimLev's ebox internals exactly matches everything in mine. Question: what is the bright blue relay for?
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  #20  
Old 10-15-2013, 10:34 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
I recall that you were of the view that the e-box lid has some hidden clips underneath that are preventing yours from coming off.
As I was just trying to snap a picture of what is in the ebox, I didn't try all that hard.
From this thread, and others, it appears to simply be a tight fit; but, I'll open that Pandora's box when I need to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
Question: what is the bright blue relay for?
If someone knows (JimLev?, RDL?) it would be great, as we really don't have every relay photographed and identified yet.

I had thought we had every fuse photographed and identified, but, this picture from cn90 today shows that we missed (at least) one:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > radio disabled after battery disconnect
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Usually there is a 10A fuse in the back of the unit...

__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #21  
Old 11-15-2013, 10:10 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
You remove the fuse holder cover by sticking a comparably sized flat-head screwdriver tip into that small slot on one corner
I used pleiades' answer in this post today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Summary of engine cranks but won't start threads (gas air spark compression timing)

Quote:
Originally Posted by teklord69 View Post
I want to check the fuses under here..How do I get this cap off without breaking anything?
Note: It would be nice if someone can confirm which end is EF1 and which end is EF5?
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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #22  
Old 11-15-2013, 10:26 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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BTW, I would suspect, assuming left-to-right convention, that the fuse numbers are the following (but I'm just guessing):
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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #23  
Old 02-16-2014, 02:08 PM
josemedeiros007 josemedeiros007 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I used pleiades' answer in this post today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Summary of engine cranks but won't start threads (gas air spark compression timing)



Note: It would be nice if someone can confirm which end is EF1 and which end is EF5?
I have the same question, how do I get the DME fuse block cover off with out breaking it? There is a clip, and it looks like I broke it when I used a screw driver to unlatch it, but I still can't take off my cover, is it holding the fuse block into a socket?

Last night my 1998 BMW E39 528i started, ran rough and then died, I started it again, and it barely started and died, now it cranks over and doesn't appear to even try start at all so I am hoping it's just a fuse or a relay and not the fuel pump. Earlier that day, and all week it was running fine, and not even missing after cleaning the grounds last week.

My 15 amp fuse for the fuel pump in the trunk is not burnt, and has power but the car all of sudden won't start. I also have no computer trouble shooting codes using my Peak Research reader. I'll jack up the car and verify if the fuel pump is pumping gas by disconnecting the filter, but I can't seem to hear it running.

I am stranded in San Luis Obispo, so any help would be very much appreciated.

The unemployed IT guy!
Jose F. Medeiros
408-256-0649
http://www.linkedin.com/in/josemedeiros

Last edited by josemedeiros007; 02-16-2014 at 02:20 PM.
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  #24  
Old 02-24-2014, 07:52 AM
Oxide_325i Oxide_325i is offline
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  #25  
Old 02-27-2014, 05:47 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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It would be nice to find a video of removal of the passenger side ebox cover and the clips over the DME fuses (and which DME fuse is number 1).

See also this information about fuses posted today, for the cluster:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drawdy View Post
I went in and played with fuse 18, didn't do much. But fuse 24! Now that was the ticket. Fuse 24 was pulled, unfroze the gauges and reset them all back to zero. Replaced the fuse and the cluster began working again!!! Now I just need to get the pixels fixed and it'll be as good as new. I think I got some free miles in there though since it was stuck at 156280 for over a day, working now though.
I should mention that nothing was blown, just pulled and replaced the fuse and that seemed to fix it.
Also, this thread today has the fuse descriptions, in German:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Frustrating rear ABS problem [fixed, new module]
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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 03-01-2014 at 08:03 AM.
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