Request clarification of what is inside the ebox under the passenger cabin air filter

bluebee · Oct 12, 2011

I'm trying to identify all my relays and fuses but ran into a technical difficulty preventing me from removing the ebox cover under the passenger air filter on my 2002 525i...

May I ask these three questions:
Q1: How do you best remove the ebox cover itself (see pictures below)?
Q2: What are the numbers (& purpose) of the fuses in that ebox?
Q3: What are the purposes of the relays in that ebox?

Here, for the record, is how I tried to remove the ebox cover:

First, I removed the passenger side cabin air filter housing ...

Then, with a 5mm hex wrench, I removed the 4 cover bolts:

I looked for a fifth 5mm hex cover bolt but did not see any more than four bolts holding the cover in place:

But, I couldn't figure out how to actually REMOVE the cover!

I could barely see the set of fuses behind the myriad wires in the back of this ebox:

And, I could see only two relays in that ebox.

bluebee · Oct 12, 2011

In summary ...
Q1: How do you best remove the ebox cover itself?
Q2: What are the numbers (& purpose) of the fuses in that ebox?
Q3: What are the purposes of the relays in that ebox?

I see this picture from multiple cn90's threads; but his looks different than mine:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Immediate need!
- DIY: Troubleshooting S.A.S. and How to Replace the Famous Fuse # 107!
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > wiper relay location 2000 5281A
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > 530i no power goin to A/C compressor, dont know what else to try.
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Electrical Scare!!!!

Here's a description of the harness connectors from cn90:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > No GO

And, this, again from cn90, has the fuses but doesn't explain them:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > wiper relay location
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > windshield wipers not working properly

Doing my searches to find what the fuses are, I see more cn90 pictures but no fuse explanation:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > A/C fan on at all times.....

JimLev · Oct 12, 2011

The fuse functions are in Bentleys, but depending on the year and model you have they don't always match the Bentleys description, see page 610-34.
This is fuse panel 3 for F1 to F5
According to Bentleys:
F1 open (no fuse)
F2 30 Amps, Fuel injectors, Engine control module
F3 20 Amps, Cam sensors, MAF, Crank Sensor, Thermostat
F4 30 Amps, Heated O2 sensors, Tranny control module
F5 30 Amps, Unloader relay, power to coils

Here is what my 2000 540/6 really has. (might be more that below, this is what I could trace out)
F1 30 Amps, MAF, Cam sensor #1, DME, T-Stat, Evap emission valve
F2 30 Amps, Fuel injectors, Both Vanos solenoids, Cam sensor #2, Secondary air injection pump electrical valve.
F3 30 Amps, Cam sensors, MAF, Crank Sensor, Heated O2 sensors.
F4 30 Amps, DME
F5 30 Amps, Unloader relay, power to coils

bluebee · Oct 25, 2011

JimLev said:
Bentleys description, see page 610-34.

Thanks JimLev!

My PDF Bentleys jumped from section "540-7 Sunroof" to "720-1 Seat Belts", entirely skipping the 600-set of pages.

However, my rarely used paper Bentleys have the missing section "610 Electrical Component Locations" in the front (before it then devolves into two inches of electrical wiring diagrams).

As you said, page 610-34 contains Figure 3, "Fuse panel 3 (DME fuses F1-F5, engine electronics).

What's weird is that there are also Fuses F1 to F45 in the glovebox, so, what I'm realizing is that the F-number isn't unique, unfortunately.

This seems to be the set of 6 fuse locations and numbers:

Fuse panel 1: F1 to F45 <= in the glove compartment top panel (45 fuse spots)
Fuse panel 2: F46 to F66 <= directly above the battery (21 fuse spots)
Fuse panel 3: F1 to F5 <= at the back of the ebox under the passenger side cabin air filter housing (5 fuse spots)
Fuse panel 4: F107 to F114 <= under passenger side front seat carpet (8 fuse spots)
Fuse panel 5: F100 to F106 <= above the battery positive terminal (7 fuse spots)
Fuse panel 6: F75 to F76 <= behind the glove compartment (2 fuse spots)

Notice between F1 to F114: there are two F1 to F5 fuse numbers; there is no fuse spot for F67 to F74, nor for F77 to F99.

That makes a total of 88 discrete fuse spots (not all of which are filled or used).

JimLev · Oct 25, 2011

Right, some fuse panels use the same F numbers.
The 600 section of Bentleys is the second manual.

bluebee · Oct 25, 2011

Thanks for the confirmation.

BTW, I never did get the ebox 'hinged' plastic cover off (it's apparently 'stuck' by four 'clips' in the back).

Do I simply use brute force or is there a 'trick' to getting the cover panel off?

194449 · Oct 26, 2011

Blue, no clips on mine. Probably the rear edge of the lid seal is sticky or the rear corner is catching on the trim.

JimLev · Oct 26, 2011

The lid has an o-ring type of seal that is probably just sticking.
Put some muscle on it and it will lift off.

bluebee · Oct 27, 2011

There are definitely clips on mine.

I'll snap a better picture in the daylight so you can see what I mean.

thanks.

194449 · Jan 3, 2012

Blue did you ever work this one out or take a pic?

bluebee · Jan 3, 2012

Actually, [embarrassed], I had forgotten all about it.

bluebee · Feb 5, 2013

Well, it has been a year since I've visited this thread, which I had to do today because of this:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > It's my turn again: Dead battery ... two days in a row ... (yeah, I know what to do)

In doing my research for that thread, to track down the location & purpose of all 88 fuse slots (encompassing F1 to F114), I see this photo below - which seems to show 'tabs' on the back of the white plastic from post #78 of this thread.
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Mechanical Fan Exploded! Is another one Justified?

Anyway, if I need to access those five fuses (EF1 to EF5), I'll make use of this information, and try to snap my own picture when I'm successful.

NOTE: Fuses 1 to 5 are in the E39 twice, so, I designate the ebox fuses as EF1 to EF5 (and the next five glovebox fuses as F1 to F5).

EDIT: This video shows how to remove the E39 ebox:

bluebee · May 23, 2013

It has been a couple of years since I tried to remove my ebox cover, but I was reminded of it just now when I saw this thread today:
-> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Fuse box under cabin filter in engine compartment

BarryM said:
I couldn't undo the 4 bolts holding the lid on this fuse box today!

The bolts are Allen heads and the rear 2 just spin. Looking at the front 2 it looks like the bolts thread through an upper half & lower half. Anyone else had this problem and any suggestions on how to get them out - neither are easy to get much on

See also:
- One user's attempt at locating and snapping a picture of every single fuse & relay in the BMW E39 (1) & the most often recommended method to diagnose overnight parasitic battery current drain including the FSU (1)

bluebee · Sep 10, 2013

For the record, we made great strides at identifying and snapping a photo of all the fuses and relays in the E39 over here:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Picture & amperage & description of every single fuse & relay in the BMW E39

It seems many of us have a problem getting the passenger side ebox cover off, and then the little fusebox cover off ... as shown in this thread today:

Punisher9113 said:
This is a brief question on how to remove the cover on the fuse box in the ebox of an E39 2003 525i.

I suspect that fuse 4 may be blown due to the fact that all 4 O2 sensor heater codes came up at the same time even after replacing the O2 sensors.
I believe its fuse 4 of the DME fuses as that fuse governs the circuit connecting the DME and the O2 sensors.

Does anybody know how to remove the cover to pull out the fuses and take a look?

edjack said:
Remove the right side cabin filter assembly. Remove the bolts holding the e-box cover on. It may be a little difficult to pop open, since there is a gasket on the lid.

When replacing the lid, smear a little anti-seize on the bolt threads.

Punisher9113 said:
Hey Ed I got that far but the little box that holds the DME fuses has yet again bested me. Do you know how to get that one open?

bluebee said:
Typing /ebox F3 in the VERY best of E39 Links nets this, which the OP has already surmounted:
- How to open the BMW E39 white e-box under the passenger side cabin air filter ebox (1)

Now that the ebox cover is off, the next trick is to get the fuse cover off:

And, once that cover is off, it would be nice if the OP can clarify exactly which fuse is which, based on this thread:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Picture & amperage & description of every single fuse & relay in the BMW E39

bluebee · Sep 30, 2013

The question came up today from pleiades as to which relay that blue relay is from JimLev's ebox (to the right of the fusebox)?

pleiades said:
I recall that you were of the view that the e-box lid has some hidden clips underneath that are preventing yours from coming off.

The two rear corners of my lid had other problems the first time I removed it. The engine-side bolt was frozen with the threaded ferrule insert underneath, so I had to spin it all out as I lifted that corner by hand. (The ferrule was free-spinning in the plastic base.)

The other three bolts gave no trouble but the black plastic cowling over the rear, outer corner of the lid was blocking it from lifting ... until I flexed the cowling a bit. The lid did not have any other fastener-type fittings underneath.

Having removed the lid and unplugged everything in the e-box more than once, I think it would not be too hard to replace my e-box with a new one, but I just keep using anti seize on the bolts and being careful to only snug them down.

Incidentally, I noticed that the pic of JimLev's ebox internals exactly matches everything in mine. Question: what is the bright blue relay for?

VA525FREAK · Jan 31, 2015

ok so how do you remove the cover of the fuse box for ef1-5? I cant get that little bitch off

bluebee · Feb 2, 2015

VA525FREAK said:
so how do you remove the cover of the fuse box for ef1-5?

There are references to discussions on how to best pull the DME fuse cover off over here ...and how to access from the underside, without pulling the cover off:
- One user's attempt to locate, describe, and photograph all fuses and relays with a picture of every fuse & relay (1)

BTW, I don't think anyone has yet confirmed which of the five fuses in EF1 to EF5 are which, given that the darn thing is symetric (with EF3 being the only one we can all agree upon as to what it is).

bluebee · Feb 13, 2015

This video above is nice to have, since a lot of people ask about how to remove the cover from the the EF1 to EF5 fuses (some access the fuses from below instead).

This post recently in the canonical fuse thread finally puts to rest the precise numbering of the EF1 to EF5 fuses:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Picture & amperage & description of every single fuse & relay in the BMW E39

TheHockeytowner said:
All of the following is gleaned from BMW WDS, and is valid for cars with DME motor electronics MS43 and left-hand drive only.

EDIT - Fuses 1-5 = Bluebee's fuses EF1-5

Fuse 1 connects to the DME relay (DME box), Fuse 31 (glove box), and all 6 ignition coils.

Fuses 2, 3, and 4 all connect to the DME relay.

Fuse 2 also connects to the DME itself, along with the idle control valve, charcoal filter valve, VANOS inlet and exhaust valves, DISA valve, and SAS pump valve.

Fuse 3 also connects to the two camshaft position sensors, the MAF, crankshaft position sensor, and the thermostat.

Fuse 4 also connects to the 4 oxygen sensors, and the transmission control unit (automatics only, obviously).

Fuse 5 connects to Fuse 109 (under the passenger-side carpet), and the fuel injector relay (DME box).

The fuses are read left to right, just like the words "Motor-Sicherungen" -- which by the way translates from German to "engine security measures." Given the components that these fuses connect to, it's aptly named

See also:
- One user's attempt at locating and snapping a picture of every single fuse & relay in the BMW E39 (1) & the most often recommended method to diagnose overnight parasitic battery current drain including the FSU (1)

Andog1 · Jan 23, 2016

2002 e39 e-box lid removal

Greetings, all from a newbie:
I have been fighting with my '02 530i E39 for some time due to a couple of DTCs popping up and inhibiting my ability to get an emissions test here in CT. So, I plug in my AutoEnginuity enhanced BMW package, and have some difficulty communicating with the ECU/DME.
After poking around in the forum, I decided to pull out the ECU/DME and take a look at the board inside to see if there is any sign of corrosion or a failed component.
I pull off the cabin air filter housing to expose the E-box, and zip out the four torx screws; all no problem and in about three minutes. Then, when I try to remove the lid to the box, it will only open at the front, and acts like it's hinged at the rear. After piddling around reading various posts about this that all say something like "undo the four screws and lift the lid off", I whipped out a mirror and looked at the back of the lid. CRAP! The nimrod engineers at BMW had decided to put two latching doohickies on the firewall side of the lid. See the photos and you will appreciate what a pain in the patooty these are to release. All of the angles are wrong for getting in there with just about any kind of off-the-shelf tool.
I did manage to get the latch closest to the driver's side released, but was unable to get its mate to do the same. I ended up having to yank on the lid until it came out. A bit caveman, I know, but I had to get it off. I did break the area around the latch, but was able to super-glue it back in place before reinstalling the lid. What a totally unnecessary pain in the ass; if they had put those two latches in the front, it would have been a thirty second job entirely unencumbered by aggravation....

Request clarification of what is inside the ebox under the passenger cabin air filter

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