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DIY: Oil Filter Housing Gasket, Idler Pulley, Oil pipe

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122K views 78 replies 33 participants last post by  catso  
#1 · (Edited)
I have had an oil leak around the oil housing, and I've also noticed that oil feeder pipe to VANOS has been leaking, as it was drenched in oil.

The problem which I didn't solve in this DIY was the noise coming from the belts. Initially I thought it would be the idler pulley, but the noise did not go away.
Here's a video of the noise:

This DIY maybe helps somebody who has the same problem.

This is not a DIY you do as your first DIY, as it has many components which you should already be familiar.

Tools:
  • Sockets: 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 16mm
  • Wrenches, 1 1/4 inch, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 36mm
  • Other various parts, maybe a pry bar, lubricant.

Parts:
  • Idler pulley 11281738605
  • Washers 007603-014106 (need 4 or two, read below)
  • Gasket for oil filer housing 11421719855
  • Oil filter and oil if you are going to change your oil too.
  • Oil pipe to VANOS 11361705532

Work performed on a 2001 325i, with automatic transmission.

____________________________________________________________________________

Disconnect the negative terminal of your battery.
Also raise the front of your car because it will be help you later on. Put the car on jack stands.

1. Remove the air intake passage which connects to your air box.
2. Remove the air box.
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....
3. Remove the fan shroud. For some of you this may be an easy step, but I decided to document it for somebody like me who needs even the most minuscule details.
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4. Those with automatic tranny will have to remove the fan nut, but to have more room I decided to remove the left side only of the upper coolant hose.
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5. Use a 1 1/4 wrench to remove the fan.
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Remove the power steering reservoir holding and put it to the side. I think I misspelled the word 'reservoir' in the picture.
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6. Remove the dust caps.
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7. De-tension the belt. Then remove the belt from the idler pulley. If you are re-using the belt, mark the direction of the movement, and install it the in the same direction.
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If you are only replacing the idler pulley only, stop here, and install by reversing the steps.

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Alternator is now out.
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Now loosen the oil filter cap with a 36mm socket, this will allow the oil to drain completely in the pan. I didn't take a pic of this step.

Now we need to remove the power steering pump (PSP). The PSP has three nuts, 13mm, two on opposite sides on top, and one on the bottom. The one on the bottom you can get to if you hahve raised your car. You can get to it from the top or bottom.

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Just put the PSP on the side, out of you way. The oil filter housing is now exposed.

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Remove the oil pipe feeder to VANOS. This hose connects the oil filter housing (OFH) and the VANOS. If you are not replacing the oil pipe, then just remove the bottom side. You will need two new washers though.
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Now remove the nuts which hold the OFH in.
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Installation.
By now you should be very familiar with the process, and the installation is the reverse of this DIY.

If anybody knows why my car makes that noise in the video, please tell me.

PS: If you remove the upper coolant hose, be sure to bleed the system before starting the car. To bleed it: loosen bleeder screw on expansion tank, turn heater on to 91, then pour coolant or distilled water slowly until you see it coming out of the bleeder screw. Tighten it and you're done.
 
S
#4 · (Edited)
WOW! Great write-up! I keep this one in mind as my future diy project! Nice pictures and instructions! :thumbup:

Edit: just do us a favour - link it to the wiki.

Edit 2: question, some people say the alternator is a bitch to install back, problematic to align it or something like that...did you experience that?
 
#6 ·
Edit 2: question, some people say the alternator is a bitch to install back, problematic to align it or something like that...did you experience that?
Click to expand...
No. I had a harder time installing the fan than the alternator. Align the bottom nut first, then insert the top on to hold it in. Wiggle and tighten the bottom one, until it catches the threads. use the socket and your hands to do this.
 
Q
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
One of the other pulley's or waterpump?

It sounds like it might be one of your other pulley's or the water pump? Advance auto parts sells the bottom pulley too- the one for your AC unit- even though it is probably not that pulley whining. I think it is the top tenisioner pulley or pump.

IF you change the bottom one too-just pull the old one and when you take it to Advance ask for a pulley for a 2000 323I- it is the same pulley on all models, but not listed for 2004 325CI or 2001 330CI, as I found out, but since I changed it once on my 323i I knew they had it - even though they said I needed to order the entire tensioner to get that pulley for my 325 or 330?.
 
#13 ·
Great DIY - I wasn't online at the first of the year when it was posted. That oil filter housing gasket went on my 525iT many years ago. It's a pita to get in there and swap.

The sound in the video - sounds like the noise my DISA made when it had a busted shaft - the flapper just rattled back and forth and sounded like marbles in the intake. have you unplugged the wiring harness from the DISA valve to see if the noise stops?
 
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#15 ·
genuity said:
Did you use any sealant for where the oil filter housing seals with the block? Is the gasket enough? I just want to never see a leak from here ever again.
Click to expand...
The gasket should be enough to prevent oil seepage for quite a while. I wouldn't want to risk getting the sealant into the oil passages.
 
V
#23 ·
Thanks for the fantastic write-up. I'm in the middle of the job now (got the oil filter housing off a few minutes ago). It's actually a pretty easy job. One question - does anybody know the torque values for the important bolts, particularly the six that hold the oil filter housing to the engine block? These were fairly tight on my car. Thanks.
 
#25 ·
FWIW, I replaced my E39 alternator earlier this week (DIY writeup here) but the one torque figure I couldn't find in the Bentleys was for the alternator bracket bolts.

Did you get a torque figure for yours?
 
A
#31 ·
I started getting a vibration from the engine that I didn't get before I replaced the gasket. I know it's from the engine because revving it in neutral makes the vibration stronger and with high frequency.

I double checked to make sure I tightened all the bolts. The idler and tensioner pulley are brand new. The idler pulley is lined up properly.

Any ideas? I'm stumped.

Thanks.
 
S
#32 ·
I might be doing this soon. I need to do my thermostat and hoses plus a new belt and I was thinking, why not do this one too? There's almost 100K miles on my car already, so might be a good idea to do this as PM. A lot of work for a $6 gasket, but with this write-up it should be a breeze ( I hope!)
 
A
#33 ·
Hey guys, I just did this and something odd happened.

When I try to start the car, it just completely shuts off. Methinks this is a sign of a short somewhere because I have to remove the negative terminal on the battery just to get another go.

I have a suspicion it has something to do with the alternator?

Thanks!
 
G
#34 ·
ArmavirMig said:
Hey guys, I just did this and something odd happened.

When I try to start the car, it just completely shuts off. Methinks this is a sign of a short somewhere because I have to remove the negative terminal on the battery just to get another go.

I have a suspicion it has something to do with the alternator?!
Click to expand...
This may sound dumb, but believe me I have seen it more times than not...did you make sure you put all the wires, connections, and connectors back on properly? :confused: It helps to document everything before unplugging everything willy nilly. ;)

Double check your connections. Good luck :thumbup:
 
#38 ·
I am stuck and cant get my alternator out. I already took both bolts out. I could wiggle it back and forth, but the bottom seems like it's stuck. Anybody experience this? Any help would be appreciated. Oh I also broke the water pump pulley :mad: guess I'm going to have to take a drive to the stealership.
 
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#41 ·
Thank you for the excellent write up! I must have read it like 4 times before I took the plunge. It was not that hard, giving the hardest thing I have done is the CVV. Well I'm not done yet vanos seals is next since I already have the fan out.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Bimmer App
 
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