BMW Forum - BimmerFest BMW Forums banner

What typical tandem DIY repair jobs are COMBINED (while you're there)?

23K views 52 replies 20 participants last post by  mr_y82  
#1 · (Edited)
What DIY jobs would you combine in tandem (while you're there)?

One of the hardest things for me is the research that comes BEFORE doing a job, especially if something like an alternator blows up in the middle of the day and I have to rush to get the right set of parts (ask me how I know).

In my situation, I would have done the cooling system and the drive belt system along with the alternator, if I had only known what parts I would be removing that were common to both jobs.

Therefore, it would be helpful if we had, ahead of time, a list of typical recommendations for what jobs to COMBINE in tandem.

I'll make a starting list, but I would expect others to add value so that we can eventually summarize with a really good list of jobs to combine, while you're there.

Mostly from the parts list thread, here is the summary I have so far (please improve!):

- People recommend doing the cooling system & belt drive overhauls together as the parts removed are similar (with or w/o alternator).

- People recommend the power steering PS hose check/fix & oil filter housing (OFH) gasket check/fix while doing the belt-drive/charging system overhaul.

- People add spark-plug replacement when doing the VANOS seals as the same parts are removed (I think they also do the o-rings at the bottom of the oil dipstick at the same time).

- It's common to do the crankcase ventilation valve (CCV) all by itself but some recommend a valve cover gasket (VCG) replacement at the same time. I'm not sure, but I think they do the idle control valve (ICV) at the same time (please correct me if I'm wrong so we all benefit from the result).

- Brake pads, shoes, and sensors often have rotors done as part of a regular brake job (if needed), and most recommend a complete brake fluid flush just after rebedding the pads to the rotors.

- Whenever replacing the battery and battery vent and explosive charge, you can check/repair your trunk loom wiring at the same time.

- When doing an oil and filter change, replace the o-rings on the oil filter tube and even the leaky 0-ring on the power steering fluid reservoir to stop that nasty grimy leak at the top of the PS fluid reservoir.

- When polishing headlight covers, check/replace the crumbling plastic inner headlight adjusters if necessary.

- When replacing all four tires, consider having the alignment checked once the new tires are on and balanced.

- While installing the radio mount DICE Silverline, consider adding a 4-foot (3-foot is too short) AUX cable at the same time you're installing the DICE.

- Most recommend doing the entire thrust arm (e.g., using EACTuning Meyle HD) when there is a need to replace just the thrust arm bushings.

QUESTION:
What other tandom jobs would you combine (while you're there)?
 
#2 ·
Depending on the mileage you should consider replacing the font wheel hubs along with the pads and rotors.
 
#4 ·
font wheel hubs
Hmmm... what do you mean by "hub".

Googling for "bmw wheel hub", it looks like a ~$100 part that only fits on the front axle. A bunch of hits refer to a "BMW Wheel Bearing Hub", so maybe its the bearing with the parts surrounding the bearing?

At the very least, it would seem to be a good idea to CHECK the wheel bearing (hub) when doing the brakes so that's a good find! Thanks.

front and rear windshield
:) Not to mention checking about half the dozen fluids & tire pressure.

Image
 

Attachments

#7 ·
When I did my cooling system (and my water pump, the second time...) I replaced all belts and tensioners as preventative maintenance. Generally any "system" like the SAS, AC, cooling, etc, should be replaced as a system for best results and less chance of an old part going bad and killing off the new parts.
 
#8 ·
Bluebee--If your going to tackle the Vanos seals--the valve cover goes with that--if your cooling system needs updating--add that to the job--add the ccv valve and 4 hoses along with the oil filter housing gasket--by doing all of these at once you have the extra needed room to make the job easyier--once the cooing system has been removed then tackle the ccv and ofg--you will have to remove the throttlebody to get to the ccv--so clean the tb and idle control valve at the same time--On the front wheel hubs--stay away from that one
might be more than you need to tackle--thats a rough job for me with a good air compressor and impact wrenchs---I would also replace the 02 sensors and spark plugs when doing the vanos and all
Hope that helps
 
#10 ·
Vanos seals ... valve cover ... cooling system ... ccv valve and 4 hoses ... oil filter housing gasket ... throttlebody ... idle control valve ... 02 sensors ... spark plugs
Wow. That's a BIG job! :)

- Vanos
- Cooling system
- VGC
- CCV
- 4 hoses
- OFH gasket
- throttlebody cleaning
- ICV
- O2 sensors
- spark plugs

It scares me just thinking about it ... but from the standpoint of "while you're already there", it seems to make sense.

We REALLY need to help others (like me) plan ahead on that biggie!

any "system" like the SAS, AC, cooling, etc, should be replaced as a system
Hmmmm.... we don't have the Secondary Air System (SAS) listed yet.

QUESTION:
What tandem job goes with the SAS system overhaul?

thrust arms, control arms, sway bar links, tie rods, and struts.
Sounds like a good recommendation. Let's flesh it out so that I (and by definition, all dummies) can understand it.

I do not know suspension components well so I'm unsure if the "ball joints" are already covered in your list ... but how does this sound as tandom jobs?

- Thrust arm bushings (with the thrust arm already attached by EACTuning)
- Control arms (are the ball joints on the ends of these???)
- Sway bar links (is that the same as a 'sway bar'???)
- Tie rod ends (I think these have ball joints on the ends)
- Struts (are these the front shocks but not the springs???)

Is this just the list for the front?
What would the list for the rear be?

CCV ... I would do that job solo
You're the second person to say the CCV is so big of a job, to do it solo. So, we need to make note of that in the recommendations.

Vanos...secondary air pump valve vacuum tube...valve cover gasket ...SAP valve
Is this your recommendation to do in tandem?
- VANOS
- SAS vacuum tube(s)?
- VCG
- SAP valve
 
#9 · (Edited)
For those p[lanning to keep their cars, WRT to any front suspension work after 75K, I'd recommend doing what cnn recommends: Replace everything while your in there. That includes thrust arms, control arms, sway bar links, tie rods, and struts. While many components may not exhibit any symptoms of failure, everything (struts, ball joints, bushings, etc.) on the front end is worn. The difference in ride and handling is transformational. And you won't have to worry about any front suspension work for another 75K or so.

Maybe it was just me but my experience with the CCV was that that job was the biggest PITA. I would do that job solo unless you are removing something (e.g. intake manifold) to improve access.

WRT Vanos, have some vaccum tubing available as you will probably crack the old secondary air pump valve vacuum tube when moving it as everything rubber gets brittle over the exhaust manifold area. Wait til you break up pieces of your valve cover gasket in that area! If you're in there, you may as well replace the SAP valve as that is good preventive medicine for saving your pump. If that valve fails, the pump costs $300+.
 
#12 ·
Based on this thread, when you need a new clutch, consider the following:

1. DMF - dual mass flywheel (yours may be OK but they are a wear item)
2. engine/crank rear main seal
3. trans input seal
4. trans guide tube (throwout bearing rides on there 24/7)
5. trans selector shaft seal
6. trans output seal
7. clutch slave cylinder
8. trans plastic pivot pin and spring
9. trans lever arm (moves throw out bearing - may be OK)
10. Make SURE he uses new pressure plate bolts (got mine from dealer)
11. exhaust gaskets and new copper/bronze nuts
12. New shift console bushings (you can do SSK later) and plastic washers
 
#14 ·
Im about to tackle this combined job,
Valley pan
CCV
valve cover gaskets
and a few cooling system odd and ends that i didn't change yet. after this job every part in the cooling system that can fail has been replaced on my e39
 
#15 ·
Just a suggestion based on recent experience with my daughter's Civic. When changing a part that can affect engine performance (e.g. spark plugs, coils, O2 sensor, etc.), consider expending the extra effort to do each job individually rather than in tandem. If a problem occurs (such as reduced performance, bad idle, hesitation, stalling, etc.) , this will allow you to isolate the cause of a problem.

After I replaced her plugs and O2 sensor together last weekend, the car has a strange hesitation that only occurs immediately after startup (cold or warm). It feels like fuel starvation and always happens only once per startup during the first acceleration and then disappears. It does not recur until the next startup. So now I have to go back and troubleshoot. Which means putting back the old plugs and seeing if that's the cause and then putting back the old O2 sensor. A PITA. Oh well... :mad:
 
#16 ·
#18 · (Edited)
GSA1 kindly helped premo421 do his VANOS seals last weekend in NY:
- Please help me!!.. Vanos seals install

He reports these 'expected' tandem jobs:
He already had the Beisan seals, and a valve cover gasket and plugs. I told him to get fresh coolant, valve cover bolt grommets, new oil and filter, and new belts and come back on Sat AM.
And, these unexpected tandem jobs:
when we dropped the belly pan, we found a tensioner pulley and ball bearings sittiing there ... We got to the fan bolt removal process and broke the hold down tool ... SO...I decided to remove the entire cooling system from the car at the water pump. SO... I did the vanos seals, changed the plugs, changed the tensioner and belts, replaced the Intake side CPS (more sbout this later), and checked the throttle body boot for leaks.put back the coils and cooling system hoses. The shroud he had was held together with zip ties and no rivets or brackets. So I donated my old shroud ...
But that's not all:
about the "New" CPS I just put in...Guess what, it's a Chinese-made piece of cr**

I pull the code...yes, CPS. He xplains to me that he was getting intermittent CELs, so he bought a CPS. Long story shory, I change the CPS back out. Now the car runs perfectly!!
And, yet another job in waiting:
I found the Secondary Air Pump hose separated into 2 pieces.
 
#20 ·
GSA1 kindly helped premo421 do his VANOS seals last weekend in NY:
- Please help me!!.. Vanos seals install

He reports these 'expected' tandem jobs:
And, these unexpected tandem jobs:
But that's not all:
And, yet another job in waiting:
I ordered a CPS to keep around for back up, I got the Febi CPS and it was made in chine CRAP! The little rubber gasket was missing, and the pins in the connector were all F$#&ked up. Loose! I returned it and got the original BMW sensor. Unbelievable how much better the quality was,
Crappy CPS
Image
 
#22 ·
I belatedly realized the problematic DISA valve isn't listed in this thread yet.

As Doru mentions in this thread today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Broken DISA Valve

The DISA valve (which is easy to remove) should be visually 'inspected' whenever you have the airbox out of the car (or at the 85K-90K mile point).

This airbox-removal corresponds, I think, to most alternator repairs, and perhaps also most cooling system and belt-drive overhauls.

So, moving forward, I'll try to remember to recommend the DISA removal with all those jobs.

What other repairs necessitate airbox removal?

I replaced my DISA valve when I did the cooling overhaul.
I had +/- 89 k miles (143,xxx Km). To replace it it's a piece of cake. Literally. The "biggest job" is to remove the air box to have room, other than that, take the rubber boots off and unscrew the DISA.
I had some whirring noises, which disappeared after I changed the DISA. When I pulled it out, the top steel pin was loose - halfway out. The flapper also had 1/4" play at the beginning of the turn (when opening the valve) - very easy to open that 1/4" if you will. then, it was tighter, just like the new valve.
The reason I asked for the mileage is that I looked on various forums to see what other people experience was with the DISA. It seemed that lots of people experienced trouble after the 100 k Miles mark. I was close to 90k, and the DISA didn't look very good. Maybe the "cutoff" is around 85-90 k miles for this part?
 
#23 · (Edited)
For the crosslinked record, today it was asked what tandem jobs to do when replacing the engine:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Replacing engine

- Necessary suspension components
- Motor and transmission mounts
- CCV & hoses
- Cooling system components
- Belt drive system components
- Clutch (if warranted)
- ?What else?
EDIT: Fudman replied:
If you are replacing the CCV, you should also replace the hoses. Just blow the dipstick tube clean.
If you are replacing the radiator and water pump, you should also do the expansion tank, fan clutch, various pulleys and belts.
If you are redoing the front suspension, you should consider replacing the struts, thrust arms, sway bar links and tie rods.
If you're replacing the engine, replace your Vanos seals.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Just another vote (by Fudman in this case) over here today for doing the I6 VANOS and VCG at the same time:
- Did my valve cover gaskets and spark plugs today! wow that was a pain

For the I6, the Beisan DIY procedure has everything you need to know. And since you're 80% there, you may as well do your I6 Vanos seals too.
It looks like people suggest the following along with a VCG replacement:

  • plugs replacement (mpower997)
  • I6 vanos seals replacement (poolman) or V8 valley pan gasket (Whorse)
  • ccv & hose replacement (poolman)
  • icv cleaning (poolman)
  • o2 sensor replacement (poolman)
  • ofh gasket (poolman)
  • throttlebody cleaning (poolman)
  • sap valve & hoses (fudman)
  • cooling system & hoses (poolman)
 
#25 ·
For the record, edjack suggested in this thread today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Is this a good deal for a 540i motor?

The following items to replace along with a new engine:
Before they install the engine, consider having them replace the CCV valve, the following gaskets: valve cover, upper timing chain covers (intake manifold?); water pump, t'stat, engine mounts.

While they have the upper timing case open, ask them to inspect what they can see of the chain guides.

Can anyone add to this list?
 
#26 ·
#28 ·
Granted this depends on how one drives, but is there a general rule of thumb as to when a suspension overhaul is in order? (i.e., at 100k, a complete front and rear overhaul is due?)

And if not a full overhaul, are there general mileage thresholds for replacing shocks, control arms, etc, or are these generally all replaced at the same time?
 
#27 ·
#29 · (Edited)
I just belatedly realized when I replaced my spark plugs, I 'should' have tested the fuel system pressure as a tandem job (since the Schrader valve was readily accessible at that time).

- While replacing your spark plugs (1), where can you find your E39 fuel system pressure test Schrader valve for the I6 (1) and for the V8 (1) (2) (3)
Image

Image
 
#30 ·
Here's another tandem jobs suggestion today from the E46 guys:
- E46 (1999 - 2006) > Oil leak

Had I known when I had my power steering pump replaced 2 years ago that the oil filter housing gasket was due, or leaking I would have replaced it. It's only 6 more bolts and 30 minutes if you're already in there.
 
#31 · (Edited)
How much common parts removal is there in these two sets of jobs?

My engine stinks when it gets hot, so I'm thinking of 'finally' thinking of getting a round tuit for my long-delayed VCG R&R.

Going to the bestlinks and re-reading this thread for advice on tandem jobs, I see 'clearly' that these go together:

  1. VCG (and associated spark plug seals)
  2. VANOS (seals)
  3. SAS (hoses will crumble)
  4. Chain guides (on the V8)
  5. O2 sensors (if over 90K miles since last replaced)
  6. Spark plugs (if over 90K miles since last replaced)
And, maybe:

  • CCV (and associated hoses & dipstick)
  • OFH leaks (gasket)
  • PSP leaks
  • Cooling system (if needed)
  • Belts & tensioners (if needed)
Basically, the question is how much (really) in common is there between these two big jobs?

  • VCG + Vanos
  • CCV + OFH
Specifically the question is:
Q: Which parts removed in the first set of repairs are also removed for the second set of repairs?
 
#32 ·
For the record, a similar question was asked today:
Car is a 2000 (11/99) 528i Touring, M52TU motor.

Should I add anything else to this list, as long as I'm getting this deep into it?

R&R CCV, vent tubes, and clean ICV
R&R PS reservoir and hoses
R&R Intake gasket
Beisan Vanos Seals (again, first time was ~ 2yrs ago)
Beisan Rattle Fix
Vanos and VC gaskets, banjo bolt and oil line
R&R Oil Filter Housing Gasket
R&R Main Drive Belt

I've already done the cooling system overhaul.