Is this a good deal for a 540i motor?

my2275bug · Aug 5, 2011

Hello everyone. I'll try to keep this short. I have a 98' 540i with 250,000 miles. This motor was running good n strong, til I blew a head gasket. Or even worse, warped a head. My plan was to fix this motor. But out of curiosity, I stopped at a BMW wrecking yard down my street. I asked about a complete motor for my 540i. They said they had a couple. $1200 for motor. And if I wanted them to install it would be +$500 for labor. They also offered 3months warranty on motor and labor. Would this be a better way to go?? Thanks in advance....

edjack · Aug 5, 2011

How many miles on the engines? Sounds a lot cheaper than rebuilding yours.

However, I would hesitate having a junk yard swap my engine.

my2275bug · Aug 5, 2011

Hello edjack..... The motor I saw said 98' 103k miles on tag. This junk yard is also a repair shop for BMW n mbz. And they alway seem to be busy with customer cars. Or I can save $500 and install it myself.... Just being lazy

bmw_n00b13 · Aug 5, 2011

There's computer aspects to this too. While they may do it right, junkyards aren't known for telling the WHOLE truth. OTOH having them do it is easier and if they do it right (I'd have a Gt1 plugged in soon after) it will be worth it.

bluebee · Aug 5, 2011

my2275bug said:
motor was running good n strong, til I blew a head gasket

I've never taken an engine anywhere near 250K miles so, I'm in unfamiliar territory here. Most blown head gasket threads appear to be the result of overheating (e.g., see these threads (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30)).

Was that the case with this engine?

Or, do they (at high mileage) ... just spontaneously blow the head gasket (presumably due to long term normal wear and tear)?

edjack · Aug 5, 2011

my2275bug,

Before they install the engine, consider having them replace the CCV valve, the following gaskets: valve cover, upper timing chain covers (intake manifold?); water pump, t'stat, engine mounts.

While they have the upper timing case open, ask them to inspect what they can see of the chain guides.

Can anyone add to this list?

$500 sounds like a bargain. I wouldn't DIY to save that small amount.

bluebee · Aug 5, 2011

edjack said:
engine ... CCV ... valve cover, upper timing chain covers (intake manifold?); water pump, t'stat, engine mounts... inspect ... chain guides.

I'll add this to the tandem jobs thread:
- Typical tandem DIY repair jobs combined while you're already there (1)

edjack said:
Can anyone add to this list?

bluebee said:
- If you're replacing the engine, consider also replacing
- Necessary suspension components
- Motor and transmission mounts
- CCV & hoses
- Cooling system components
- Belt drive system components
- Clutch (if warranted)
- ?What else?

Fudman said:
If you are replacing the CCV, you should also replace the hoses. Just blow the dipstick tube clean.
If you are replacing the radiator and water pump, you should also do the expansion tank, fan clutch, various pulleys and belts.
If you are redoing the front suspension, you should consider replacing the struts, thrust arms, sway bar links and tie rods.
If you're replacing the engine, replace your Vanos seals.

edjack said:
$500 sounds like a bargain

In the early days, it cost me $450 just to get a battery replaced at Stevenscreek BMW in San Jose!

Burning2nd · Aug 5, 2011

i would buy it swap it and rebuild the one that you blew from fresh and be ready to swap it back

franka · Aug 5, 2011

Sounds like a good deal with a warranty.

Mileage will not wear out a head gasket. Overheating is why head gaskets go. That is assuming the engine had never had the head(s) off since new.

bluebee · Aug 6, 2011

franka said:
Overheating is why head gaskets go

Thanks for clarifying that as I was wondering if the head gasket just pops at some mileage (he's at 250K so that's a LOT!).

If overheating was the reason, then these links may help the OP:

- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) & how to test an engine for blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & a well researched reusable response to a particular user with a blown engine (1) & what questions to ask when severe heating-related damage is initially suspected (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what E39 engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & why the E39 engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1)

franka · Aug 6, 2011

I've got 230k+ miles and I'm running syn 20w50 in this Dallas heat and its running very, very well.

I was having to add a little oil between changes when running 0w30 or 0w40 but not now.

Is this a good deal for a 540i motor?

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