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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 03-30-2011, 08:07 AM
Takechan Takechan is offline
E39 fanboi
Location: Scandinavia
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 244
Mein Auto: BMW E39 520i (M52B25)
Lifting engine without special bracket and trasmission angle?

Hi,

So i'm finally going to swap my I6 engine tomorrow, but it's going to be in my driveway because my mechanic is very busy.

I got a few questions.

1) I don't have the special engine tool (cf. picture 1) so how do I avoid the enging slipping and dropping forwards/backwards?

Picture 1: special engine tool


2) I plan on removing only the engine, so when I separate the engine from the transmission will I need to lift the engine + transmission simultaneously a little before the engine has a clear path to be removed? I guess the spline will be in the way?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 03-30-2011, 09:26 AM
Jase007 Jase007 is offline
Wrenchin' fool ...
Location: nova
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 756
Mein Auto: e39 528it
Check harbor freight or local auto parts store for engine hoist load balancer. Typically around $40 USD.



RE your #2 Q: Remove shroud / radiator, engine fan/fan clutch, etc.. to get room to move engine forward and away from transmission bell housing. You need to support the transmission as well. It is sometimes easier to remove both together. it is also easier if you remove the hood for total engine bay access. If you have an auto transmission, need to remove auto trans cooler lines as well.

Do you have a Bentley manual? Procedure is laid out in there.
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Last edited by Jase007; 03-30-2011 at 09:29 AM.
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  #3  
Old 03-30-2011, 10:04 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 19,181
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 automatic
I did a /engine(F3) in the bestlinks to find this, which may help:
- How to make your own engine hoist and engine support (1) when removing the subframe or I6 oil pan
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  #4  
Old 03-30-2011, 10:09 AM
Takechan Takechan is offline
E39 fanboi
Location: Scandinavia
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 244
Mein Auto: BMW E39 520i (M52B25)
Thanks for that Jason. I had originally planned on removing the entire front and rolling out the entire engine with tranny attached. I dropped that idea since that would require me to remove the condenser.

And yes I have the Bentley manual - I have printed out procedures from the: Bentley manual, TIS, pelican parts, various online DIYs. Together they almost form a complete picture, but I couldn't find any direct descriptions of moving/aligning the transmission.

bluebee, seems like an interesting and cheap fix if you don't have access to a hoist, and need to remove the subframe.
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  #5  
Old 04-15-2011, 12:14 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Takechan View Post
have printed out procedures from the: Bentley manual, TIS, pelican parts, various online DIYs. Together they almost form a complete picture, but I couldn't find any direct descriptions of moving/aligning the transmission
Since you're doing the research, it would be GREAT to have a list of the links that help a user most when doing their own engine swap!

I'd add it to this set of links I just put into the bestlinks from reading over two dozen sad E39 blown-engine stories.

- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) & how to test an engine for blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & a well researched reusable response to a particular user with a blown engine (1) & what questions to ask when severe heating-related damage is initially suspected (1) & what E39 engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & why the E39 engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & real-world results from people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25).
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  #6  
Old 12-16-2012, 08:53 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 automatic
This is a similar question of how to lift the M54 engine on the E46 side of the house:
- Engine Removal Lift Points

It would be nice if someone has a picture of the rear lifting hook.
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need, in seconds!
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  #7  
Old 12-20-2013, 06:53 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the crosslinked record, this related topic was posted today ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpx View Post
I'm not shy to take the whole car apart, but I really don't want to remove more than necessary, especially if I have to replace the gaskets/seals afterwards. That being said, I'm going back and forth about removing the engine: should I take both engine and transmission or engine only? Based on feedback on this forum, it seemed removing both might be easier, until I got to the giubo. After reading about it I felt less embarrassed for getting stuck there, especially without removing the exhaust.

Here's where I could use some help:

1. I removed the bumper to make room for both (eng+transm) to slide out. The aux fan is out, but the radiator is still in the way. I can disconnect the transm. lines at the transmission, but where do I disconnect the AC lines?
How do I disconnect the AC compressor and lines so I wouldn't have to recharge the system afterwards? I can't reach the bolt to disconnect the compressor no matter how I try.

2. Where is the best part to disconnect the transmission? The manual says disconnect the exhaust first anyway, then the giubo seemed the way to go. But if this can be difficult to put back or it can cause vibrations if not compressed properly - maybe I should just stick to the bell housing bolts? Or leave the giubo on and disconnect the shaft at the rear end?

Thank you in advance.
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