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What it really takes for a CIC retrofit.. (DIY, Complete! Coding files included!)

469K views 515 replies 73 participants last post by  kd7iwp 
#1 · (Edited)
Update 8/20/2013: I tried to go through and add part numbers to everything. These are done to the best of my ability, but please do your own research to be sure!!

So, I decided I was going to do a CCC retrofit, but the further I got into researching parts, the more I realized I might as well just do a CIC retrofit for about the same price. I've seen threads on this, but none that really made it as cut and dry as it probably should be, so hopefully this thread helps.

All my parts are starting to come in, so here my thread on it:

Here's what you need (will be updated as I go):

BMW made parts:
-CIC unit - $1000 on eBay, (65129199616 I think) included other parts noted below (actually I bought it outside of eBay to get the price lower, but that's not really the best idea usually)
-Display ("CID") - Included (65829224346)
-iDrive controller (optional) - Included (65829240957)
-Connector to hook up new iDrive controller - Included (Tyco/TE 968813) - available at http://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-connectivity-amp-brand-9688131.html?p=43816490 Edit 9/15: I believe BMW part number 61138380696 is the same and will work as well
-CID CAN/power connector (61136954526) - Included
-CIC cable, connects to CID for video signal (61119185171) - $38.50
-USB Port (61319167196) - $26.99
-USB Port cable (61129196805) - These are back ordered so I ordered two of the CIC video cables and shaved part of the connector to make it work. Will report back if any issues doing this Update 8-6-13: THIS DID NOT WORK!!- Update 8-13-13: I WAS WRONG. IT WORKED JUST FINE.$38.50 (correct version is cheaper but back ordered until mid-August. Update 8-6-13: ECS Tuning has these in stock now. I'm going to send back one of the video cables (the one I didn't modify obviously) and have already ordered the correct cable. It will be here Thursday.. Until then I'm stuck with European maps, lol.
-Trim piece around iDrive controller (comes from the 6 series model) - Included (51169169999)
-Trim piece that goes around the CIC slot - Included (51456976361 for black, must have lower piece from CCC, existing piece is fine if available)

-Optional: LCI climate control assembly (buttons are slightly larger to better fit the CIC trim) - did not purchase this, but I found one for $129 I'm thinking about buying

Aftermarket Parts:
-CAN emulator to activate navigation, etc. without paying BMW big bucks for their activation codes (find on eBay) - $100
-Updated 2013 maps (find online, put them on a 32GB USB drive) - Free
-FSC code for updating maps (find on internet for < $50) - $49 Update 8-6-13: Received my FSC code, but you can't put it in until the system detects a USB drive with the map update on it.. and my USB port doesn't work yet due to trying to make a video cable work, SO, I can only hope this code is valid (SEE UPDATE). UPDATE: THE CABLE WASN'T THE PROBLEM. THE ISSUE IS THE SOFTWARE ON MY CIC IS TOO OLD TO UTILIZE USB TO UPDATE THE MAPS. I HAVE TO USE 2012 DVD'S FOR NOW
-"FAKRA" GPS antenna. (ebay, $15 or less if you're willing to wait on a shipment from China) - $15 (can be had for $5 if you're patient). Update 8/20/13: Not needed if you have CCC prep or CCC. See later posts about the connector in the trunk, TCU, etc.
-Misc stuff from Radio Shack (I bought way too much stuff) - $30

I'll post some pictures as I get into actually doing the retrofit. Hopefully today I will have most of my parts and by Saturday have everything I need to get it installed. I'll post a lot of pictures and everything I do coding wise when trying to get it to work.

Total thus far: $1,297.99 (if my math is right)
 
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#4 · (Edited)
I'm going to add prices in to the original post at some point.. I would guess about $1500

edit: came out to be < $1,300 total so far.. seems like I'm forgetting something, but guess we'll see!
 
#6 ·
There will need to be some major coding added unless the CIC unit was sold pre-coded to the VIN of your car.
 
#9 ·
Cool, subscribed!!! If someone can find an easier and cheaper way of getting this done, I am all for it!!!!! Good luck bro, keep us posted
 
#13 ·
Thanks--hopefully I don't break anything too bad! I can't decide whether I'm looking forward to cutting up the center console to fit the new idrive controller or not

I almost bought an entire replacement center console for like $100 just so I could do the retrofit on that and keep the original parts untouched. Probably won't do that now though
 
#14 ·
Re: What it really takes for a CIC retrofit.. (DIY, In process)

So, I decided I was going to do a CCC retrofit, but the further I got into researching parts, the more I realized I might as well just do a CIC retrofit for about the same price. I've seen threads on this, but none that really made it as cut and dry as it probably should be, so hopefully this thread helps.

All my parts are starting to come in, so here my thread on it:

Here's what you need (will be updated as I go):

BMW made parts:
-CIC unit - $1000 on eBay, included other parts noted below (actually I bought it outside of eBay to get the price lower, but that's not really the best idea usually)
-Display ("CID") - Included
-iDrive controller (optional) - Included
-CID CAN/power connector (61136954526) - Included
-CIC cable, connects to CID for video signal (61119185171) - $38.50
-USB Port (61319167196) - $26.99
-USB Port cable (61129196805) - These are back ordered so I ordered two of the CIC video cables and shaved part of the connector to make it work. Will report back if any issues doing this - $38.50 (correct version is cheaper but back ordered until mid-August
-Trim piece around iDrive controller (comes from the 6 series model) - Included
-Trim piece that goes around the CIC slot - Included

-Optional: LCI climate control assembly (buttons are slightly larger to better fit the CIC trim) - did not purchase this, but I found one for $129 I'm thinking about buying

Aftermarket Parts:
-CAN emulator to activate navigation, etc. without paying BMW big bucks for their activation codes (find on eBay) - $100
-Updated 2013 maps (find online, put them on a 32GB USB drive) - Free
-FSC code for updating maps (find on internet for < $50) - $49
-"FAKRA" GPS antenna. (ebay, $15 or less if you're willing to wait on a shipment from China) - $15 (can be had for $5 if you're patient)

I'll post some pictures as I get into actually doing the retrofit. Hopefully today I will have most of my parts and by Saturday have everything I need to get it installed. I'll post a lot of pictures and everything I do coding wise when trying to get it to work.

Total thus far: $1,267.99 (if my math is right)
I plan on doing this next year. Thanks for posting all this good info! Good luck.

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 
#17 ·
CIC is so worth it! This might end up being cheaper than factory equipped. Good luck to you and the updated interface that awaits.
 
#18 ·
Emulator came in! I added connectors to the ends (soldered them instead of crimping + put heat shrink on them to make them look better). It's setup so that if I remove the emulator later, the original wires will plug right back in to one another with the emulator out of the way.















 
#20 · (Edited)
The goal for today was to add connectors to the CAN wires where the emulator will splice between the car and CIC. I wanted this setup as neat as possible, and setup so if I went back to the old system (to sell the car for instance), I could just take out the emulator, plug the wires back in and put it back together. If I could do it over again I would find a way to not have to clip any wires, but I didn't feel like waiting for more parts so I just went with doing it this way.

For those of you that don't know, basically the emulator connects between the car and CIC. Used CIC's are already setup / licensed to a particular car's VIN, and I have heard that the activation codes to switch it over to your car the "proper" way is quite expensive (something like $1300 for voice and navigation to be enabled). So, the emulator basically tells the CIC what it wants to hear and makes it think everything is activated, and voila, no need for expensive activation codes. I'm not too sure on the specifics of how that actually works, but evidently it does.

I bought this one on eBay for $85 + $15 for DHL shipping from China (which is INSANELY fast by the way. I ordered it on Wednesday and had it Friday)

Anyways... k, time for lots of pictures.

Pulling wood trim off.. just start at one end and give it a yank every 6 inches or so. The white rectangle things are what holds it on.


Before you pull the trim off, you have to push the hazard / lock button out first so you can disconnect the wire for it. By "push out" I mean push it from behind the dash, towards the rear of the car. The hazard button will come out the front basically, after it's disconnected.


Two screws hold on the cover around the radio/climate control. It also has a few clips--one on mine always seems to get stuck and takes a LOT of force to get off. I cracked some of the plastic in the process this time


Finally got it off. Usually the box at the bottom (has the seat heater buttons) will come out with it, but this time I had twisted the plastic piece so bad it came off. Worked better actually, but not exactly how it's supposed to work..


Cracks on the back of the cover.. oops


OOPS!


Back of MASK


Wiring.. left is main connector, center is for the display, one on the right is for radio antenna


More wires


Here's the business.. back of the main block. The green ones are for the MOST bus. The white and black on the right side of the connector will come out. The only one left will isn't a separate plug, so those wires come out one at a time instead of in a set


Another angle


And another


black/white plugs pulled out to get them out of the way


Everything out except the ones I need to get to.. these we have to pull out one at a time (technically I guess you could leave them in and work on them that way, but I decided to just pull them out to give me good access to them.


another angle


Here's another shot.. the area where the blue thing is is where the wires are we need to get out. We need to remove the blue thing first...


Another angle


Another angle


And another


Push down on the tab (right hand side in the pic) and slide the blue bar out


Here's a picture of the tab


From there, take a small screw driver and push down on the pin.. when you get it right it will slide right out


Here are the two wires I need for the emulator..


These are crimp on connectors, but I don't like crimp on connectors, so I took them apart so I could solder them. Also put heat shrink on the end to make them neater.


Soldered solid..


Another angle, soldered solid


Both wires done


Here's how they'll connect once on the car


Here's adding connectors to the "car" side.. same deal. Soldered + covers put back on + heat shrink


Another shot


I am going to try to use this CCC fan connector (my car has CCC / Nav prep) to power the emulator so I can leave the main power wires to the CIC alone.. I didn't get around to wiring this today though.


Another shot? Not sure why.


Here's everything back together in the "stock" setup. I put the MASK back in today.. didn't have time to do the whole changeover (well, probably did, but didn't think I would so I didn't attempt it)
 
#21 · (Edited)
WOOHOO, my car already had a GPS antenna wired all the way up front.. that's the green'ish fakra connector. I guess that comes with CCC prep?



Random


Going back together.


And here's the last part I need.. cable to connect CIC to screen


Another


Welp, that's it for now!

Sometime this week I may go ahead and hook it all up and see what happens..
 
#24 ·
This is all the easy part.. Really I could have just slapped everything in in an afternoon, but I'm trying to make it neat & reversible.

Coding is going to be the fun part.. let's wait until I get that part going before anyone else jumps in because of me :)
 
#26 · (Edited)
If you have the MASK version in your car currently, the little cubby thing under the CD slot has got to go..

If you look closely on the CIC trim piece I posted ealrier, you'll see it is only the top half. The bottom half is a separate piece that you'll need.

I happened to have a CCC trim piece from my previous expedition of a CCC retrofit, and we can use the bottom half of that here... pictures:

Here's the CCC trim in it's original form


Here's where the two halves snap together.. luckily the new version doesn't use the snaps, so you can break these if you need to to get it apart.. I broke a few


Another picture.. One tab snapped on the first try


One more


Separated.. I only snapped almost every one of them, oops


Old top half vs. new top half


New version top + old CCC lower


Here's how they go in the car


And another view

 
#30 · (Edited)
Got it all in. I am having some issues coding it though. When changing FA/VO on CAS everything went fine. LMA wouldn't take it though.

It keeps saying "der codier index folgender steuergerate ist fur diesen codier auftrag nicht zulassig" Under that it says "LMA 14". I THINK the LMA software is too old.. but I'm really not sure. I'm afraid to mess much more until I get a power supply.. my battery has to be hating me by now.

I THINK this has something to do with some of the car having some old as heck software, but I'm not sure

Has anyone seen this error before??

I get the same when I try to just do a read on the CIC (it shows up in the module list)

I still have the emulator installed so I'm not sure if that is blocking something/causing issues?

edit: BUNCH of pictures below. Will explain them later.
 
#31 · (Edited)
That is the HVAC controls from behind. You have to remove this from the plastic housing that it's in



Just push down the tabs and pop it out


Old screen coming out. Just remove the two screws and disconnect two wires on the back


Old video cable


Old power connector


holes in the dash..


You have to replace this connector with a new model. Push in this tab to pull out the housing the wires are actually connected to


This one..


Push in on the little metal clip things and the pins will slide out. They get caught in a second place, so you may have to do this twice to each one


tada!



How the new one is wired..


done


Wires in..


Not sure what this is


Next was to route the wire for the USB port and the video signal wire for the display. I tried to use a coat hanger and it failed miserably.


More fail


Fail



At this point I realized I needed to just pull the glovebox off to give myself some room.. I pulled the whole box off (note just the cover) which gives plenty of room.


Glovebox out of the way.. wire being ran. USUALLY the wire going to your USB port will not be purple. I hacked up a purple one since it wasn't on back order, just to see if it would work


wires being routed


This is on the CIC side.. wires coming through


Glovebox back on
 
#32 · (Edited)
Here's about where I left the USB for now



Routed


Next was the video wire.. this one wasn't much fun either. The factory one for the MASK system was routed towards the drivers side. I routed this one towards the passenger side in much the same way as the USB port cable went


Finally


Not sure..


Display going in..


Connections


Another


yay.


Hooking up the emulator


Here I spliced into the CCC fan harness to power the emulator. THIS DID NOT WORK!! DO NOT DO THIS. Tap in to the main power wires (the big red/brown ones) on the CIC harness


All connected (the first time..)


Trying to get everything to fit..


CIC in for first test.. and NOTHING worked. Well, the lights would come on on the CIC, but that was it. So, it all came back out. I swapped everything back over to the MASK system, and that one turned right on. Then I re-intalled the CIC without the emulator. This time it came right up! Navigation was greyed out though as expected.



At this point I had wired emulator power wires to the main CIC power wires and hooked everything up. It came right up!


Pulling it back out to finish hooking up GPS, etc.


Here's how the emulator is wired


More


It'll fit somehow!
 
#33 · (Edited)
It all fit eventually, somehow.. the emulator box can go kind of towards the back, down, left directions (towards front of car/driver side)


Going back in.. notice gap around HVAC buttons. Not bad, but can see it if you're looking for it


One more.. almost done!


One more


And another apparently


Wood going on


Hazard button wire


Going in


Two screws at top of screen.. same as the old one


Another


All hooked up


And wood back on


Here's where things got interested.. I went to code the FA on the CAS and everything went fine. Did the same on LMA and it gave me an error and wouldn't write_fa





LMA error.. I think the daten files I'm using are too old. Downloading new ones now



In tools 32, if you open the file CICR, somewhere in there you will see c_fg_lesen. Double click this (lesen means read, so you can more or less click on those without too much worry). This will give you the last 7 of the VIN the CIC came out of. You need this to order the FSC code for map updates. C248467 in my case.


Here I'm just messing in tools 32.


Here I tried to just read the CIC.. and get this error. Gah :(



The good news: Everything works EXCEPT sound. lol. My old idrive controller works fine, etc. Just no sound.
 
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