Gotcha--yeah I'll try to figure out that part number when I get home for you. It's a pretty simple install really.. If I hadn't been as neat about it and taken so many pictures, it could have been done in an hour or so. I never did modify the center console for the new idrive controller--that's probably the most time consuming part

 

High Res Monitors

RealOEM seems to break them all down more or less like this with what I see as 4 most common part numbers in play:

09/2009 on
65829211969

11/2008 ***8211; 09/2009
65829224346
65829193745
65829193755

Our high res 8.8***8221; monitors appear to cross-reference like this:

(From a listing) This part will fit these makes and models with these options (Interchange Part Number: 594-01076)

BMW 323i 10-11 (Sdn, Canada mkt), display screen (dash), 8.8" screen
BMW 328i 10-11 display screen (dash), 8.8" screen
BMW 328i 12 display screen (dash), Cpe, Conv and SW, 8.8" screen
BMW 335i 10-11 display screen (dash), 8.8" screen
BMW 335i 12 display screen (dash), Cpe and Conv, 8.8" screen
BMW 528i 10 display screen (dash), 8.8" screen, from 9/09
BMW 535i 10 display screen (dash), 8.8" screen, from 9/09
BMW 550i 10 display screen (dash), w/Nav sys (8.8" screen), from 9/09
BMW 650i 10 display screen (dash), w/Nav sys (8.8" screen), from 9/09
BMW M3 10-12 display screen (dash), 8.8" screen
BMW M5 10 display screen (dash), w/Nav sys (8.8" screen)
BMW M6 10 display screen (dash), w/Nav sys (8.8" screen)

Market appears to be $350 to $600 for a used one from the recyclers here in the US. Harder to figure on eBay, be careful - some European cars of later vintage ran 8.8" monitors - but NOT High Res... a few running at $300 or so did not appear to be high-res. Check the part #'s carefully. However, the one there now for $600 also turned up in my recycler search.

 

Yes the cic from the 3 series is the same as the 6 series some comes with no glass some does. I actually like the one without the glass because there's no glare. I ordered my combox today, I will add it to my cic this weekend I got it on ebay for $200 asking price is around $300 install is easy if you already have bluetooth and usb inside your center console if not than it's a pain but well worth it. hopefully I can do the coding. I also would like to add front and rear camera with the ability to switch between them using one of the programmable button on my steering wheel and of course as soon as you put the car in reverse without loosing my PDC however I cant seems to find a code video module as they all confusing and stuff and I cant think of nice and way to mount the cameras

 

What's the part number on the combox that you ordered? I have seen some for around $250 but kept waiting for one to pop up closer to $200 before I bought one

Hey, I'm in the middle of building a plug and play wiring harness to connect the combox. I'm building 3 and keeping 1--I want to sell the other two.

Just let me know if you're interested.

 

hey man I have not receive the combox yet as soon as I do, I will take pictures and know about the part number, as for the harness I already got one. sorry

 

Harness adapter for iDrive Controller?



[/QUOTE]

Any luck in detrmining the part #, or have a spare for me? I think I have everything else on order or on the way already - except that little part! Here's hoping for an easy hookup, coding of the VO, and enjoy! I have no idea what maps were on my CIC, assume US and 2009 or later, yes?

As for combox, if my Dension ends up NOT working, then I may want one of those custom harnesses. B-R from Canada say that the Dension (seen as a CDC) would continue to work (external sat tuner also) with a CIC retrofit. ...but NOT an external HD tuner, hence my US-spec CIC purchase from Carter650i.

Here's another source to find used parts: car-parts.com That was how I could determine the high-res 8.8" screen cross-applications and the interchange # - came from a listing I saw there.

Let me share some information re: iDrive controllers: From RealOEM, it looks like there were two different ones with part #'s ending in 0958 or 0959 as the latest. These #'s are just a single digit apart, with 5 part numbers for each - first four for each were "ENDED". So, my guess is that any of the multi-button 2009+ controllers would be found to have one of a possible 10 part #'s selected from the groups below:

No. Description Supplement Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes Photo
01 Controller 1 09/2008 03/2009 65829189050 ENDED
01 Controller 1 09/2008 09/2009 65829213311 ENDED
01 Controller 1 09/2008 03/2010 65829205179 ENDED
01 Controller 1 09/2008 12/2010 65829231118 ENDED
01 Controller 1 09/2008 65829240958
For vehicles with
National version Korea
and
NATIONAL VERSION JAPAN
and
National version China
and
TV function
and
Navigation system Professional
and
Ländersteuerung Hong Kong 04142
L802A=Yes

L807A=Yes

L8AAA=Yes

S601A=Yes

S609A=Yes

S8LHA=Yes (Only the first set where all 6 conditions met with "Yes" had the latest controller as ending in 0958. All the other permutations of response to the six questions yielded the same set of number seen just below - add 1 to each of the part #'s above... Note also that there are 4 different overseas (Asian) versions but no US version, ours would be 4x "NO', a "YES" for nav, and a "NO for Hong Kong)

01 Controller 1 09/2008 03/2009 65829189051 ENDED
01 Controller 1 09/2008 09/2009 65829213312 ENDED
01 Controller 1 09/2008 03/2010 65829205180 ENDED
01 Controller 1 09/2008 12/2010 65829231119 ENDED
01 Controller 1 09/2008 65829240959
For vehicles with
National version Korea
and
NATIONAL VERSION JAPAN
and
National version China
and
TV function
and
Navigation system Professional
and
Ländersteuerung Hong Kong 04142 = No
L802A=Yes

L807A=Yes

L8AAA=Yes

S601A=Yes

S609A=Yes

S8LHA=No

 

Sorry, I knew I was forgetting something last night when I got home.. I'll look for the number in a second

 

I can't find that one anywhere---I'll look at the part when I get home.

 

Maybe only on the label on the plastic bag



that the part came in?

 

I'm talking about the little connector that goes on the idrive controller

 

Yes, me too. I was just thinking hat for very small parts (like screws or nuts, etc.) they often come to us in a bag that has a label with the BMW Part Number - and the "Ein Stuck" (one piece) on there too!

 

Found it!

http://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-connectivity-amp-brand-9688131.html?p=43816490

Tyco 968813-1

BMW 837723403 (I haven't found anything using this number)

 

I will look for this piece tonight. Your BMW part number may be missing two digits? Even so, looks like it is probably under the 8377 group...

 

iDrive Controller

I will check out that part, thanks for tracking it down. From reading today, looks like the early adopters simply used the larger of the TWO harnesses (the piece with just the two buttons had one and the bigger rotary dial box had another) that were found on our CCC cars and moved wires into the larger single 4-wire harness that had been in the two-button switch - and plugged that into the new controller. So with part number now in hand, just what does that small adapter piece in the photos above do? How was it used in doing the install?

Combox

I could not help myself - did a little bit of looking on RealOEM. These were first found on the MY11 on the F-series cars (I looked up the F10 550i), so it's obvious why we in the E-series crowd want to retrofit...

Looks like we want Combox Media***8230; maybe combox telematics, but those functions seem to get coded out for internet to work...(read a bit on that today as well in the coding forums). We do not want Combox telematics for GPS as that seems to be for cars without navigation.

Just below they are all called "combox telematics" but the illustration was clearly for combox media - had to click that to get this listing. 3 part numbers given - of which two are "ENDED". Seems to me that there were two part numbers for combox media:

01 Combox for Telematics 10/2010 84109244191 ENDED
01 Combox for Telematics 03/2011 84109251739 ENDED

and one more for combox telematics:

01 Combox for Telematics 07/2012 84109257153 a current number

Details - a bit confusing actually...

For vehicles with
Navigation system Professional
and
Preparation f mobile phone cpl. USA/CDN
and
Control for Combox
S609A=Yes

S639A=Yes

S6VCA=Yes date began
01 Combox for Telematics 10/2010 84109244191 ENDED
01 Combox for Telematics 03/2011 84109251739 ENDED
01 Combox for Telematics 07/2012 84109257153

Here is the one combox telematics part number:

For vehicles with
Navigation system Professional
and
Connection Bluetooth + USB devices incl.
and
CIC-Zusteuerung
S609A=Yes

S6NLA=Yes

S6VAA=Yes
01 Combox for Telematics 07/2012 84109257153 Note: this is the same as the third and current current number just above...

If you are wanting to buy a combox with part number 84109257154, no - that is is the combox telematics for GPS, first listed in 07/2012 - again, for non-nav F cars.

 

84109257153 is the one I was looking at.. keep in mind the "telematics" versions will work.. they're just [usually] more expensive

I can't find anyone with that connector in stock, but the link I posted says they'll have them in a week or so

 

RealOEM has a few 4-pole connectors under vehicle electrical systems, diverse connectors and these two look promising:

04 Universal socket housing uncoded 4 POL. ? 61138380696 $0.93 edit: this is it!
only in conjunction with

System AMP / Tyco
05 Universal pin terminal uncoded 4 POL. ? 61136925611 $1.20
only in conjunction with

You can see these here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EA53&mospid=50475&btnr=61_1280&hg=61&fg=15

PLUG TERMINAL ELO NOT WATERPROOF

I think 4 is the plug that you put pins into. 5 looks like an extension, female on one end, male on the other...

 

61138380696 looks like the closest one to me, but I can't find any real confirmation it's the right one.. ah well

 

6 pin to 8 pin plug - screen power?

I am reviewing all you photos just to get a feel for the install. Emulator on the way, etc... So, not having received my parts yet, where does the new 8-pin plug that you move 4 wires from old plug come from? Is it included in the CIC-CID cable set or in another of the listed items?

This step appears in your photos as you work to use existing power cable to get power to the new screen.

 

CID CAN/power connector (61136954526) I believe is what you are referring to..

Mine was black (one below is green as are most pictures of it for whatever reason).. basically you take apart the old power connector, and move the wires to this new connector.. same wire are used, they're just arranged a little differently

 

Here are the pictures of that particular process

holes in the dash..


You have to replace this connector with a new model. Push in this tab to pull out the housing the wires are actually connected to


This one..


Push in on the little metal clip things and the pins will slide out. They get caught in a second place, so you may have to do this twice to each one


tada!



How the new one is wired..


done


Wires in..


Not sure what this is

 

Aha! Yes, that connector is one of the parts on your initial list:

CID CAN/power connector "socket housing" (61136954526) - $2.88

and one is on its way to me. All good! I guess the old lever snap-in housing used to secure the connection to the old CCC's screen is not used on the new CID - just plug the newly worked plug in...

 

Aha! Yes, that connector is one of the parts on your initial list, for $2.88, and one is on its way to me. All good! I guess the old lever snap-in housing used to secure the connection to the old CCC's screen is not used on the new CID - just plug the newly worked plug in...

You got it :thumbup:

Just keep the old connector around just in case you have to make a trip to the dealer.. I tried to hook up my ICOM yesterday (my power supply finally showed up) to mess around in ISTA/P and found that it wouldn't let me do crap while the CIC was installed, so I'm sure the same would happen at the dealer

 

I believe I made a discovery..

The original idrive controller had a wider wiring connector, something like 6 or 8 pins, then the menu button has a separate connector with only 4 pins

Well guess what.... That four pin connector is the one you need! You'll just have to pull the pins out and use it for the new idrive controller. I'll post pics of how it gets wired once I get around to installing mine

 

Nice, keep us posted, I didnt have to do that but I would love learn.

 

bcic retrofit install and coding available in the west palm beach, boca raton area.. and all other coding service such as alpine flash.. and remotely too.

 

Pre-lci doesn't need them. It's already got light power on that pin by default

 

Up next: how to build a DIY combox retrofit plug and play harness!

Pins installed


Connector put into housing


Same


Same. The dog is not amused




The connector for the other side hasn't came in yet.. some of my wires apparently ended up being different lengths. Not sure how that happened

 

What it really takes for a CIC retrofit.. (DIY, Complete! Coding files included

Wow I'm impressed you doing great my friend. The other two connectors are really big so that the one you disconnected from the mulf and Tcu fit in

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

 

Wow I'm impressed you doing great my friend. The other two connectors are really big so that the one you disconnected from the mulf and Tcu fit in

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

Yep--I only need one. TCU only, no MULF on mine.

I have them on order (ordered 3 so I could build another harness or two to sell if it works). Lead time was 3 to 4 weeks though and it's only been 2

Also, maybe I overdid mine? Lol--most of the ones I have seen people selling only have 7 or 8 wires, but the one I made has more like 15. Not sure why the difference but don't really care as long as it works..

 

What it really takes for a CIC retrofit.. (DIY, Complete! Coding files included

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

 

What it really takes for a CIC retrofit.. (DIY, Complete! Coding files included

Good I'm pretty sure you will sell them.

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

 

More to do...

I did a trial fit and hook up of my CIC retrofit last night. I followed this DIY to the letter, was glad for the detailed photos and found the pin swap-out for CID power to be easy - thanks Schpenxel! However, unlike you guys where you got an instant result of power and screen display in HDD, for me it was that the CIC just started its fan (the instant I plugged in the main harness), showed no lights on its buttons (my car is pre-LCI, so I understand that pin 14 has power...), and it failed to function - inoperative, DOA - beyond that. Following this DIY carefully, after installing the parts, I then was able to input the fairly simple VO update to both CAS and LMA in the normal way: FA_ Write to each after editing them to changing the build date. That is the first item you see, in the format of "#XXYY". Remember that my car had a recent software update to 49.4 so that made this part easy, I guess. With new parts still in place, followed by the VO having been edited and saved to both CAS and LMA, I checked CAS and it indeed showed my "new" build date and my module list included a "CIC" module which, of course, had not been a choice when I still had the old date and CCC in the car. Hoping that a default code would get me past this issue, I pressed on and attempted a default coding process with NCSExpert in Expert Mode, SG-Coderein to the CIC module, but this step failed, it would not allow this. I got an error to the effect that this module's ECU could not be read, "out of range" or something like that. I saved the error message but it's on my laptop that I use for coding. So, with my CIC DOA, I have to regroup. Of course, my wood trim is still on its way to ECS from Germany. So in the meantime, as I source another CIC and return this one, I found two other things to sort out:

1) I found no FM antenna at all in the cabling into the CCC, could it be folded back and taped out of sight, like they do in the glovebox when you have CDC prep? I looked hard, found nothing... I think I know how this could be though. My car came with a sat tuner and an IBOC (HD Radio) tuner, both mounted left rear behind the trunk liner. I took a good look at the wiring back there. There an antenna lead into one of the boxes and both are MOST looped - obviously. My L7 amp is there as well, all three pieces in a nice, solid (German Engineering of course!) bracket and mounting system. Anyone else run into this? Who can offer a part number for an antenna extension cable to run from left rear back to the dash for a CIC to use?

2) If my next CIC has both FM and satellite radio internally, then do I also have to run an extension for the satellite antenna from trunk to dash? Or would it just use the exiting tuner already coded and in the MOST loop and ignore its internal tuner(s)? Of course there IS a GPS antenna lead there already as my car has CCC navigation as OEM.

Except for the CIC's failure to operate properly, the mechanical aspects of this job are quite straightforward, especially when looking at Schpenxel's photos on this iPad while doing it! Strange to have my car (a computer itself), my laptop, and the iPad all in the cabin...but that's how we do it these days. I should have had initial start up of CIC and a display, even before changing my VO, as I did this in the order specified - install first, see everything power up, then change the VO, default code CIC and TCU. Of course, I never got to TCU as I was stopped at/by the CIC.

Ideas? Thanks!

 

Quick question--are you using an emulator or is it just hooked up directly right now? I had a problem with my emulator at first and disconnected it to make sure the CIC came on.

I'll do some reading on the whole IBOC tuner scenario--I'm not all that sure

I'm almost sure that if you want Sirius/XM/whatever they call it these days, you'll have to hook an antenna up. It would probably work if you just got an aftermarket one and left it in the dash as long as there's no metal above it

I did a trial fit and hook up of my CIC retrofit last night. I followed this DIY to the letter, was glad for the detailed photos and found the pin swap-out for CID power to be easy - thanks Schpenxel! However, unlike you guys where you got an instant result of power and screen display in HDD, for me it was that the CIC just started its fan (the instant I plugged in the main harness), showed no lights on its buttons (my car is pre-LCI, so I understand that pin 14 has power...), and it failed to function - inoperative, DOA - beyond that. Following this DIY carefully, after installing the parts, I then was able to input the fairly simple VO update to both CAS and LMA in the normal way: FA_ Write to each after editing them to changing the build date. That is the first item you see, in the format of "#XXYY". Remember that my car had a recent software update to 49.4 so that made this part easy, I guess. With new parts still in place, followed by the VO having been edited and saved to both CAS and LMA, I checked CAS and it indeed showed my "new" build date and my module list included a "CIC" module which, of course, had not been a choice when I still had the old date and CCC in the car. Hoping that a default code would get me past this issue, I pressed on and attempted a default coding process with NCSExpert in Expert Mode, SG-Coderein to the CIC module, but this step failed, it would not allow this. I got an error to the effect that this module's ECU could not be read, "out of range" or something like that. I saved the error message but it's on my laptop that I use for coding. So, with my CIC DOA, I have to regroup. Of course, my wood trim is still on its way to ECS from Germany. So in the meantime, as I source another CIC and return this one, I found two other things to sort out:

1) I found no FM antenna at all in the cabling into the CCC, could it be folded back and taped out of sight, like they do in the glovebox when you have CDC prep? I looked hard, found nothing... I think I know how this could be though. My car came with a sat tuner and an IBOC (HD Radio) tuner, both mounted left rear behind the trunk liner. I took a good look at the wiring back there. There an antenna lead into one of the boxes and both are MOST looped - obviously. My L7 amp is there as well, all three pieces in a nice, solid (German Engineering of course!) bracket and mounting system. Anyone else run into this? Who can offer a part number for an antenna extension cable to run from left rear back to the dash for a CIC to use?

2) If my next CIC has both FM and satellite radio internally, then do I also have to run an extension for the satellite antenna from trunk to dash? Or would it just use the exiting tuner already coded and in the MOST loop and ignore its internal tuner(s)? Of course there IS a GPS antenna lead there already as my car has CCC navigation as OEM.

Except for the CIC's failure to operate properly, the mechanical aspects of this job are quite straightforward, especially when looking at Schpenxel's photos on this iPad while doing it! Strange to have my car (a computer itself), my laptop, and the iPad all in the cabin...but that's how we do it these days. I should have had initial start up of CIC and a display, even before changing my VO, as I did this in the order specified - install first, see everything power up, then change the VO, default code CIC and TCU. Of course, I never got to TCU as I was stopped at/by the CIC.

Ideas? Thanks!