[djcwardog]

Aha! Yes, that connector is one of the parts on your initial list:

CID CAN/power connector "socket housing" (61136954526) - $2.88

and one is on its way to me. All good! I guess the old lever snap-in housing used to secure the connection to the old CCC's screen is not used on the new CID - just plug the newly worked plug in...

 

[schpenxel]

Aha! Yes, that connector is one of the parts on your initial list, for $2.88, and one is on its way to me. All good! I guess the old lever snap-in housing used to secure the connection to the old CCC's screen is not used on the new CID - just plug the newly worked plug in...

You got it :thumbup:

Just keep the old connector around just in case you have to make a trip to the dealer.. I tried to hook up my ICOM yesterday (my power supply finally showed up) to mess around in ISTA/P and found that it wouldn't let me do crap while the CIC was installed, so I'm sure the same would happen at the dealer

 

[Carter650i]

You got it :thumbup:

Just keep the old connector around just in case you have to make a trip to the dealer.. I tried to hook up my ICOM yesterday (my power supply finally showed up) to mess around in ISTA/P and found that it wouldn't let me do crap while the CIC was installed, so I'm sure the same would happen at the dealer

that's correct whatever you do DO NOT SELL OR GET RID OF YOUR CCC UNIT,, YOU MUST KEEP IT. for obvious reason like trip to the stearlership and some diagnostic could only be done with the original equipment.

 

[schpenxel]

I believe I made a discovery..

The original idrive controller had a wider wiring connector, something like 6 or 8 pins, then the menu button has a separate connector with only 4 pins

Well guess what.... That four pin connector is the one you need! You'll just have to pull the pins out and use it for the new idrive controller. I'll post pics of how it gets wired once I get around to installing mine

 

[Carter650i]

I believe I made a discovery..

The original idrive controller had a wider wiring connector, something like 6 or 8 pins, then the menu button has a separate connector with only 4 pins

Well guess what.... That four pin connector is the one you need! You'll just have to pull the pins out and use it for the new idrive controller. I'll post pics of how it gets wired once I get around to installing mine

Nice, keep us posted, I didnt have to do that but I would love learn.

 

[Carter650i]

bcic retrofit install and coding available in the west palm beach, boca raton area.. and all other coding service such as alpine flash.. and remotely too.

 

[schpenxel]

this didn't work for me, it did make the lights turn on however the cic would not turn on after I did that. or maybe something else was wrong I don't know.

Just curious--did you ever get the lighting situation figured out on yours??

 

[Carter650i]

Just curious--did you ever get the lighting situation figured out on yours??

Yes I got it to work, it turns out after you tap into the hazard light you have to plug it back in otherwise all the power will go directly to the cic which will make it light up but inoperable. As for the pin that goes inside sucket 14 YOU MUST BUY it from the dealer any other connectio won't work. I hope I make sense.

 

[schpenxel]

Yes I got it to work, it turns out after you tap into the hazard light you have to plug it back in otherwise all the power will go directly to the cic which will make it light up but inoperable. As for the pin that goes inside sucket 14 YOU MUST BUY it from the dealer any other connectio won't work. I hope I make sense.

Good deal! Yeah, I ordered some of those pins in a rush after I read about needing them.. then realized I didn't need them lol, oh well

 

[Carter650i]

Good deal! Yeah, I ordered some of those pins in a rush after I read about needing them.. then realized I didn't need them lol, oh well

Yea you need at least one, just run a wire from the white and brown line from the hazard and fit one of the pin on the other end, remove the blue lock from the big socket that connect on the back of the cic locate pin 14 (it's empty) push the new line in there until you hear the click noise (very important that you hear that noise to ensure that it will not move around and touch other pin or something) put the blue lock in to keep them in place then you good. Remember before you turn the cic on to put connect the hazard and unlock button back in otherwise all the power will go to the cic.

 

[schpenxel]

Pre-lci doesn't need them. It's already got light power on that pin by default

 

[schpenxel]

Up next: how to build a DIY combox retrofit plug and play harness!

Pins installed


Connector put into housing


Same


Same. The dog is not amused




The connector for the other side hasn't came in yet.. some of my wires apparently ended up being different lengths. Not sure how that happened

 

[Carter650i]

What it really takes for a CIC retrofit.. (DIY, Complete! Coding files included

Wow I'm impressed you doing great my friend. The other two connectors are really big so that the one you disconnected from the mulf and Tcu fit in

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

 

[Carter650i]

What it really takes for a CIC retrofit.. (DIY, Complete! Coding files included

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

 

[schpenxel]

Wow I'm impressed you doing great my friend. The other two connectors are really big so that the one you disconnected from the mulf and Tcu fit in

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

Yep--I only need one. TCU only, no MULF on mine.

I have them on order (ordered 3 so I could build another harness or two to sell if it works). Lead time was 3 to 4 weeks though and it's only been 2

Also, maybe I overdid mine? Lol--most of the ones I have seen people selling only have 7 or 8 wires, but the one I made has more like 15. Not sure why the difference but don't really care as long as it works..

 

[Carter650i]

What it really takes for a CIC retrofit.. (DIY, Complete! Coding files included

Good I'm pretty sure you will sell them.

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

 

[djcwardog]

More to do...

I did a trial fit and hook up of my CIC retrofit last night. I followed this DIY to the letter, was glad for the detailed photos and found the pin swap-out for CID power to be easy - thanks Schpenxel! However, unlike you guys where you got an instant result of power and screen display in HDD, for me it was that the CIC just started its fan (the instant I plugged in the main harness), showed no lights on its buttons (my car is pre-LCI, so I understand that pin 14 has power...), and it failed to function - inoperative, DOA - beyond that. Following this DIY carefully, after installing the parts, I then was able to input the fairly simple VO update to both CAS and LMA in the normal way: FA_ Write to each after editing them to changing the build date. That is the first item you see, in the format of "#XXYY". Remember that my car had a recent software update to 49.4 so that made this part easy, I guess. With new parts still in place, followed by the VO having been edited and saved to both CAS and LMA, I checked CAS and it indeed showed my "new" build date and my module list included a "CIC" module which, of course, had not been a choice when I still had the old date and CCC in the car. Hoping that a default code would get me past this issue, I pressed on and attempted a default coding process with NCSExpert in Expert Mode, SG-Coderein to the CIC module, but this step failed, it would not allow this. I got an error to the effect that this module's ECU could not be read, "out of range" or something like that. I saved the error message but it's on my laptop that I use for coding. So, with my CIC DOA, I have to regroup. Of course, my wood trim is still on its way to ECS from Germany. So in the meantime, as I source another CIC and return this one, I found two other things to sort out:

1) I found no FM antenna at all in the cabling into the CCC, could it be folded back and taped out of sight, like they do in the glovebox when you have CDC prep? I looked hard, found nothing... I think I know how this could be though. My car came with a sat tuner and an IBOC (HD Radio) tuner, both mounted left rear behind the trunk liner. I took a good look at the wiring back there. There an antenna lead into one of the boxes and both are MOST looped - obviously. My L7 amp is there as well, all three pieces in a nice, solid (German Engineering of course!) bracket and mounting system. Anyone else run into this? Who can offer a part number for an antenna extension cable to run from left rear back to the dash for a CIC to use?

2) If my next CIC has both FM and satellite radio internally, then do I also have to run an extension for the satellite antenna from trunk to dash? Or would it just use the exiting tuner already coded and in the MOST loop and ignore its internal tuner(s)? Of course there IS a GPS antenna lead there already as my car has CCC navigation as OEM.

Except for the CIC's failure to operate properly, the mechanical aspects of this job are quite straightforward, especially when looking at Schpenxel's photos on this iPad while doing it! Strange to have my car (a computer itself), my laptop, and the iPad all in the cabin...but that's how we do it these days. I should have had initial start up of CIC and a display, even before changing my VO, as I did this in the order specified - install first, see everything power up, then change the VO, default code CIC and TCU. Of course, I never got to TCU as I was stopped at/by the CIC.

Ideas? Thanks!

 

[schpenxel]

Quick question--are you using an emulator or is it just hooked up directly right now? I had a problem with my emulator at first and disconnected it to make sure the CIC came on.

I'll do some reading on the whole IBOC tuner scenario--I'm not all that sure

I'm almost sure that if you want Sirius/XM/whatever they call it these days, you'll have to hook an antenna up. It would probably work if you just got an aftermarket one and left it in the dash as long as there's no metal above it

I did a trial fit and hook up of my CIC retrofit last night. I followed this DIY to the letter, was glad for the detailed photos and found the pin swap-out for CID power to be easy - thanks Schpenxel! However, unlike you guys where you got an instant result of power and screen display in HDD, for me it was that the CIC just started its fan (the instant I plugged in the main harness), showed no lights on its buttons (my car is pre-LCI, so I understand that pin 14 has power...), and it failed to function - inoperative, DOA - beyond that. Following this DIY carefully, after installing the parts, I then was able to input the fairly simple VO update to both CAS and LMA in the normal way: FA_ Write to each after editing them to changing the build date. That is the first item you see, in the format of "#XXYY". Remember that my car had a recent software update to 49.4 so that made this part easy, I guess. With new parts still in place, followed by the VO having been edited and saved to both CAS and LMA, I checked CAS and it indeed showed my "new" build date and my module list included a "CIC" module which, of course, had not been a choice when I still had the old date and CCC in the car. Hoping that a default code would get me past this issue, I pressed on and attempted a default coding process with NCSExpert in Expert Mode, SG-Coderein to the CIC module, but this step failed, it would not allow this. I got an error to the effect that this module's ECU could not be read, "out of range" or something like that. I saved the error message but it's on my laptop that I use for coding. So, with my CIC DOA, I have to regroup. Of course, my wood trim is still on its way to ECS from Germany. So in the meantime, as I source another CIC and return this one, I found two other things to sort out:

1) I found no FM antenna at all in the cabling into the CCC, could it be folded back and taped out of sight, like they do in the glovebox when you have CDC prep? I looked hard, found nothing... I think I know how this could be though. My car came with a sat tuner and an IBOC (HD Radio) tuner, both mounted left rear behind the trunk liner. I took a good look at the wiring back there. There an antenna lead into one of the boxes and both are MOST looped - obviously. My L7 amp is there as well, all three pieces in a nice, solid (German Engineering of course!) bracket and mounting system. Anyone else run into this? Who can offer a part number for an antenna extension cable to run from left rear back to the dash for a CIC to use?

2) If my next CIC has both FM and satellite radio internally, then do I also have to run an extension for the satellite antenna from trunk to dash? Or would it just use the exiting tuner already coded and in the MOST loop and ignore its internal tuner(s)? Of course there IS a GPS antenna lead there already as my car has CCC navigation as OEM.

Except for the CIC's failure to operate properly, the mechanical aspects of this job are quite straightforward, especially when looking at Schpenxel's photos on this iPad while doing it! Strange to have my car (a computer itself), my laptop, and the iPad all in the cabin...but that's how we do it these days. I should have had initial start up of CIC and a display, even before changing my VO, as I did this in the order specified - install first, see everything power up, then change the VO, default code CIC and TCU. Of course, I never got to TCU as I was stopped at/by the CIC.

Ideas? Thanks!

 

[djcwardog]

Cic

I never got to hooking up my emulator as I remembered your DIY and how it was better to connect direct at first and expect to see navigation grayed out. Since my CIC would not "light up" at all, I never got to "seeing gray."

Yes, I have a few of those FAKRA sat antennas in my parts bin, easy enough to hide one up front if it came to that. I think that a CIC will take coding to see the Sirius tuner as they only started incorporating Sirius into the later CIC's. Easy to tell by the extra Antenna connection on the back. This one didn't have an extra antenna. As for the IBOC, the experts say "No" - must be using the internal HD tuner only - but these forums show that smart folks can find a way to do most anything! I expect that I WILL have to run an antenna lead up to the CIC - any idea what part to use? I'll look on RealOEM as well, but they list all kinds of stuff under "Antenna and Radio"...

Attached - two photos of the left rear in the trunk: IBOC, Sirius and Logic 7 amp are there. Guess where the TCU is? Not in trunk, behind the upper part of back seat - have to pull rear seat out to get to that....

 

[schpenxel]

I never got to hooking up my emulator as I remembered your DIY and how it was better to connect direct at first and expect to see navigation grayed out. Since my CIC would not "light up" at all, I never got to "seeing gray."

Yes, I have a few of those FAKRA sat antennas in my parts bin, easy enough to hide one up front if it came to that. I think that a CIC will take coding to see the Sirius tuner as they only started incorporating Sirius into the later CIC's. Easy to tell by the extra Antenna connection on the back. This one didn't have an extra antenna. As for the IBOC, the experts say "No" - must be using the internal HD tuner only - but these forums show that smart folks can find a way to do most anything! I expect that I WILL have to run an antenna lead up to the CIC - any idea what part to use? I'll look on RealOEM as well, but they list all kinds of stuff under "Antenna and Radio"...

Attached - two photos of the left rear in the trunk: IBOC, Sirius and Logic 7 amp are there. Guess where the TCU is? Not in trunk, behind the upper part of back seat - have to pull rear seat out to get to that....

Gotcha--yeah, sounds like a bad unit to me. You should be able to just plug it in and it at least come on.

Speaking of IBOC/Sirius, I managed to screw up and buy an IBOC receiver thinking it was Sirius receiver.. so that was great, lol

Very odd on the TCU--I guess that's different on the 6 series. For 5 series they are right there on the LH side, close to the seat, but still in the trunk and pretty easy to get to

On the cable--google Fakra extension cable and that should get you something to use to get the signal up to the dash. You'll probably have to shave a little bit off the connectors to make them work (they have little slots/ribs in them that are supposed to stop you from hooking a wire up wrong, but in reality they're just annoying because generic cables don't have the right combination most times..but besides that they'll work fine)