I need to get voice control going on mine--I guess the car it came out of didn't have it?

 

Have you made any progress on this?

What do you plan on doing?

Do you know if activation has to be done on the latest ISTA/P software or if you can use a copy from early 2012? Or do you just have to go through one of the FSC folks around the forums?

 

I noticed that 2014-1 map update for CIC was released few weeks back and I'm wondering if any of you have already updated the maps with emulator installed? If yes, what is the procedure as you do not need FSC codes with emulator, but maps update instruction says that you need FSC codes to update maps ... Thank you!

 

I think there is some confusion on what FSC code means. There isn't one code that makes everything work, the code needed to update the maps and the code (or emulator) needed to make navigation/voice control work are totally different.

To upgrade maps, all you need to do is email one of many people online that can generate a code for you for a low price ($20-50). Then you can either put the first DVD with the maps on it in the drive, or plug a USB drive in with the maps on it. When it sees the updated maps it will ask you for the code to upgrade--once you enter the code it will then install the new maps

Installing an FSC code for navigation is a whole other animal and one I'm not even sure how to do

I have the 2014 maps downloaded, but my car is in a million pieces right now so I haven't gotten around to installing them

 

So that means the emulator is only for activating the navigation (and voice control) to work and fsc codes are for updating maps ... I always tought that with emulator I will not need to purchase any fsc codes anymore, but I guess I thougt it wrong :/

 

That is correct. Emulator only makes the cic unit think it's still in the original car it came out of, which makes nav/voice work if the original car was so equipped

You can also buy "lifetime" map codes now that will supposedly work forever with updates. We'll see though.

 

schpenxel - I don't see any pics in here.. I feel like I saw a comment one of the several times I have read through this thread.. but to confirm:

Did you keep the stock controller in or did you put in the newer idrive controller? Did you cut the trim or buy a new piece?

 

I am still using the original controller--I was fortunate enough that it somehow worked right off the bat with no coding or firmware updates or anything like that. Some others have not been so lucky.

I bought a used trim plate thing (the wood piece that the controller goes in) on ebay for like $40, and am modifying that to work with the new idrive controller. I haven't had much time to mess with it lately though--I was originally going to try to cut the hole precise enough to not need little plastic trim piece that everyone uses, but I think I've pretty well buggered up that enough that I'm going to need the trim piece. Ah well

 

schpenxel - can you elaborate more on how to get the VIN from the doner CIC? I bought a euro CIC and live in the US. Is there any major issues getting the maps over to US? If you can help elaborate on the process I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Are you familiar with NCS Expert/INPA/tools32? If so, I can explain pretty easily. If not, it will take a little more info.

No issues switching maps over, ASSUMING you do not have one of the earliest CIC units made. The very earliest ones HAVE to be updated at a dealer, while all made after that you can update. Whether you can update via USB or have to do it via DVD depends on which level of software your CIC is running. Easiest way to tell is to just burn a DVD with any version of the maps, put that in the CIC, and see if it prompts you for a code to update

You will need a code in order to do the update regardless--if you PM me I can give you a link/contact to someone that can provide both the code and a link to download 2014 maps for North America at a very reasonable price (download is free--code has a fee)

 

Yes getting pretty familiar now w ncsexpert. tools32 is brand new to me...but I THINK i was actually successful in pulling it from tool32 and I believe my CIC is a later unit cause when i first turned it on it was coded for combox type stuff i dont have in my 2008.

I didnt install the USB but i did download the 2014 maps and the car reads the discs and asks for the FSC. The issue is i havent installed an emulator yet... so will need to order one of those as well. (if you have the seller who provided your to you fast that would be great).

Sorry asking for alot here any guidance is appreciated

Cool--if you want to post or send me a screenshot I'll try to confirm.

Here is the emulator I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-CIC-Ret...t-Adapter-Emulator-Video-In-Motion-Navi-Voice-Control-For-E9X-E6X-/271285927884

(well, same seller anyways, so I think it's the same one.

Tip: If you want to avoid cutting any wires, you can buy this harness to use.. it will take a week or two to get, but I really wish I had known about it when I did mine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120977196535 (you'll have to splice the emulator into that harness.. but ultimately it would stop you from having to cut any wires on the car. If I ever do any installs for anyone, I will def. use one of these.

ohh also is there anyway i can confirm that i dont have the very early unit that wont work (i hope not)?

If you can provide the contact for the maps... do i just ask for US Map FSC w the CIC VIN i pulled from tool 32? Or is it not necessary to specify US vs EU maps?

If it asked for a code when you put in a maps DVD then I'm almost certain it's a newer one, so you should be good to go

I'll PM you the rest

 

Thank you so much!! you have been the most helpful person so far.

thats awesome about that adapter... i will def order that along w the emulator.

The CIC VIN I pulled was VJ21435. When i look up on VIN decoder looks to be from a June 2009 118i w BMW professional navi, BMW assist, bmw online etc. Hopefully that is new enough.

Cool--if you want to post or send me a screenshot I'll try to confirm.

Here is the emulator I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-CIC-Ret...t-Adapter-Emulator-Video-In-Motion-Navi-Voice-Control-For-E9X-E6X-/271285927884

(well, same seller anyways, so I think it's the same one.

Tip: If you want to avoid cutting any wires, you can buy this harness to use.. it will take a week or two to get, but I really wish I had known about it when I did mine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120977196535 (you'll have to splice the emulator into that harness.. but ultimately it would stop you from having to cut any wires on the car. If I ever do any installs for anyone, I will def. use one of these.

If it asked for a code when you put in a maps DVD then I'm almost certain it's a newer one, so you should be good to go

I'll PM you the rest

 

ohh also is there anyway i can confirm that i dont have the very early unit that wont work (i hope not)?

If you can provide the contact for the maps... do i just ask for US Map FSC w the CIC VIN i pulled from tool 32? Or is it not necessary to specify US vs EU maps?

 

That adapter looks very much like the one I got (fast shipping) from a seller in Germany - who also soldered in an emulator as a "dongle" making mine a plug and play. Cost of an emulator plus this harness seems to currently be about half, but it works great. Of course, if I had known then that I would eventually be splicing wires in both the Climate Control ("pin 21" to use an LCI Climate controller) and the Emergency Flasher harness (to make the CIC buttons illuminate at night when lights come on), I would have just done it for the CIC as well! Anyway, check out Bimmer-Tuning's auctions on eBay if you want to... Check out Schpenxel's related thread on adding a combox to all this. It is not bad compared to the fun you are about to experience as you dial in your own install...

 

Just wanted to add, that the 100% way to get the VIN out of CIC is the following:
You need the Tool32.

-Locate a 00swtkwp.prg file, which you need to load with tool32.
-in Tool32 write 99 into the middle fied where it says "arguments" and double click on "swt_parameter_setzen". A white box will appear saying ok in the bottom.
-Double click on fahrgestellnummer_lesen and see you VIN in the white result box. The vin is just the last 7.

Getting the VIN out of CICR.prg is not 100% certain, you can reprogram that and it will continue to work as it has nothing to do with the certs.

 

Just wanted to add, that the 100% way to get the VIN out of CIC is the following:
You need the Tool32.

-Locate a 00swtkwp.prg file, which you need to load with tool32.
-in Tool32 write 99 into the middle fied where it says "arguments" and double click on "swt_parameter_setzen". A white box will appear saying ok in the bottom.
-Double click on fahrgestellnummer_lesen and see you VIN in the white result box. The vin is just the last 7.

Getting the VIN out of CICR.prg is not 100% certain, you can reprogram that and it will continue to work as it has nothing to do with the certs.

Good to know, thanks!

 

Got a few cables on eBay tonight for $40 which I thought was a steal. I'm not actually going to use a USB hub, you can always trim the little tabs off on the connector and use them however you want to.

61119129360 USB Extension, 7.6ft, ~$40 @ ECS

61119202749 USB to Hub, 7.2ft, ~$40 @ ECS

61119200890 FBAS lead, 4.33ft, ~$20 @ ECS

Not bad for $40 shipped if I do say so myself

 

Lookin' Good! I think the blue one goes from combox blue to the solo USB plug you will add in the console. The FBAS lead should be an easy install.

 

Now if my car just had an engine in it, lol

 

I am also following in the footsteps of doing a CIC retrofit. Have an 08 LCI e60.

Problem I'm running into is no sound or no HVAC menu on the CIC.

I've tried coding it two ways using NCSExpert after adding $6VA and date code #0909 to both CAS and LMA:

1 - Retrieve the .TRC file from CIC. Change it and save it as .MAN and program it.

2 - Remove .MAN file and try to code it using default settings based on VO.

I have DATEN V46 and I do not get any errors while trying to program.

However, I'm still unable to get sound. Any help?

Last 7 of vin for my car CT53452 for those who want to check factory optins.

Thanks Much

 

Not being sure what else might have gotten modified, you should consider doing just a basic FA write to both CAS and LMA - adding your new #0909 and deleting out the actual value. Adding $6VA is good too, but unless you changed anything else in the car at the same time (i.e. added that CD Changer you always wanted, etc.) you should have been in good shape from here to just do a default coding in NCS Expert mode (no need for Manipulate mode to this point) of just the CIC module. Check out how to default code a module as several folks have posted up DIYs for that.

You are probably OK to just start over by confirming what is in your FA for both CAS and LMA. Assuming you have your FA's straight, then (in Expert Mode only), do the steps in NCS. You select chassis E60, select "CAS" (the other choice being "LMA" - don't take that one), and go on through doing an "SG Coderein" on your CIC module. In expert Mode, this will cause the software to simply write the default coding into your CIC. Let the car sleep and you should have a full-on CIC. If you worked on modifying the coding in your Kombi or Ihka modues trying to sort this out, you may need to do a default coding on those as well before all returns to normal. If not, then stick with the CIC.

Welcome to the CIC retrofit crowd. Now go on for the combox!

 

Already bought the combox. Just waiting on plug and maybe a good deal on the combox harness from the maestro who started this thread.

See, my retrofit is a bit weird (my thread : http://forums.5series.net/e60-discussion-2/dr-frankensteins-cic-retrofit-135759/)

So i know I have it coded. I enabled the logic 7 symbol in CIC as well. The only issue is sound.

I've spent the day coding the car with other features like Digital Sppedo in dash, mirror fold on lock and even braved the SAT retrofit today using WINFKP. However, the CIC is just boggling my mind.

Any other hints? (I've coded the cic about 10 times now, Mdrive, High Beam Assist etc etc and then removing it all)

 

Sorry, I don't have any other ideas for you honestly. I remember reading about someone who had a similar issue because the software on their amplifier was not new enough. I didn't have that issue though so I'm not sure on the details

edit: also, I cleared out some of my PM's--It told me you tried to send one but my box was full. Sorry about that

 

Checked out your other thread!

Wow - now I am following you on this.

When I received my "new" (dealer exchange unit, actually) CIC, it was packed so that I had to plug in the small ribbon-wire from the control panel into the metal box itself, then align two ports and lock the black plastic piece into place. Read somewhere that the metal boxes are the same for all the E cars (6x, 9x, 3x?) that used CIC - except for the black control piece?

When you swapped pieces over, was it possible to leave the guts inside alone and just swap out the black plastic control panels from one box (the flood E60) to the functioning box (E90)? If the metal tabs, etc, otherwise align, then perhaps you could restore the E90 box - that seems to have had all the FSC's and a VIN, etc that you need? - as it was before, snap in the E60 black piece, then plug that in - to regain your nav/voice, etc...?

If so, then you might be up with the last line of my sig? Use Vortex's E90.SSD (or any known good one that worked for another) - and start editing the CIC.trc file, writing it back to the CIC as a CIC.man (with NCSExpert in Manipulate Mode). I am up to rev 21 or so, making small tweaks each time and I think everything works as best it can, limited by my older datens/ZB #'s in C63, C62 and A0 modules within the CIC. I have CIC.C13 and need to flash it up to v41 to get CIC.C16 - and compatibility with BMW Apps. For you, maybe you wait to make the combox-specific coding changes in there until you put that in?

From your photos of the "exchange" unit, looks like you had the extra SDARS Sirius/XM antenna jack on the back in-between and slightly higher than the black jack on left for FM, and the blue GPS jack. So you got a later unit that has both IBOC HD Radio and Sat Radio tuners internal to the CIC? If so, you would code "SDARS in Exbox" to "Inbox" to turn it on - others, like me, code that to "Exbox" to have the CIC find your external sat radio tuner box in the trunk. If your OEM antenna were routed to external boxes in the rear (like they were in my car), you may need to run some antenna leads up to the dash - like I had to do... For the HD Radio, I ran a new wire from the diversity antenna amp output. If you want to use your internal sat radio, then you probably need a (second) new wire from the antenna input of your existing SDARS external tuner box in the trunk...? If you do all of that, then you should also drop in the cables needed to connect your combox. For me, this was a pair of USB cables - for the black and the blue USB jacks on the combox, plus more electrical stuff - PnP harness, etc.

If coding the CIC does not restore your "top-HiFi" L7, then perhaps you could default code your AMPT module using your "new" FA with #0909 build date? Likewise for the IHKA. However, there are many choices to code within the CIC that govern proper operation of them both...

The photo won't help you on a 5er, but it shows how they mount the antennas under the deck lid on the 6ers - no shark fin for us to tap into....

 

The photo won't help you on a 5er, but it shows how they mount the antennas under the deck lid on the 6ers - no shark fin for us to tap into....

That picture is pretty interesting--wonder if those could be used to mount inside a E60 for those that don't have the sharkfin with the proper antenna. I could use one for Sirius actually, as mine doesn't have a sat radio antenna built in. It's about $250 from ECS for the one with Sirius. About $200 for the GPS one. At the very least, we can try this location for mounting a regular Sirius or GPS antenna

 

Photo of left rear in my 6er

Here's a shot taken after I removed the OEM IBOX HD Tuner box and shunted (closed) the MOST loop. It had been on the top of that stack. Done after CIC retrofit and now using the internal HD on my CIC. This dropped a few pounds of extra weight and another potential current drain source in the car!

I forgot to shoot a photo of it, but for my 6er, the left sail panel (over the rear package tray - speaker shelf!) pops out like other trim interior pieces. Behind it was where I found my diversity amp. I unplugged the only FAKRA black jack I saw and plugged my new (from Pasternack) antenna lead there and ran it up to the dash to plug into the black jack on my CIC.

It keeps flipping this photo upside down, sorry!

 

Got my cables in today--FBAS cable too but didn't take any pictures

 

Do I have to go to dealer for car software update for CIC retrofit? My ride is 10/06 with MASK only.

 

Mine was a 2004 with MASK only and I did not have to update anything. Doubt you'll need to either for CIC. Combox may be another story

 

Thank you so much for your reply...always heard that CIC retrofit requires software update for the car that stop me from thinking about it! I am reading this thread page by page. Wonderful retrofit!

 

It's not required but sometimes helps to have latest firmware in some modules.If you are comfortable with winkfp you can do it yourself.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using BimmerApp mobile app

 

I played a lil bit NCS to activiate a few option but not brave enough to do any update to module. I read update to CIC may take 10 hours?

 

You cannot update cic over ODB. You need MOST connection. However other modules OBD is fine. However over MOST CIC update is about an hour and a half.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using BimmerApp mobile app

 

Update: I updated the L7 Amp using WINKFP and now I have sound!! I actually got my hands on another CIC module from an e64 m6 CABRIO and prior to AMP update, there was no sound even after I had programmed using NCSExpert. Now, moving on to the COMBOX retrofit. Trying to put a harness together before I start with the install.

 

I have a harness left I can sell you if you want it. It does not have a connector for MULF, only for TCU.. let me know if interested.