We shall see how it goes! Looks like I may be the bimmerfest guinea pig.. I'll try to setup a camera of the procedure similar to the transmission thread.

Thanks for your help in getting the pipe

 

Good luck I hope you get it done.

 

Just in case. Pierburg OEM Air Pump Control Valve #11727553101
OEM # W0133-1664338

Good price is $92.00 ish X 2.

 

Thanks--planning on replacing all the plastic tubing along with all gaskets, etc. in addition to those valves. My ses light still comes and goes so I really hope it's not 100% clogged. I think chances of success are much higher if I can get carb cleaner to at least slowly make it through the problem areas

I'm also reading about flashing the dme with European software. On e39's the air pump is then ignored but I'm not sure about e60's--still researching.

I'm surprised there isn't some sort of simulator that tells the computer what it wants to hear on the o2 sensors to keep the light off

Anyone here an electrical engineer?

 

I'm surprised there isn't some sort of simulator that tells the computer what it wants to hear on the o2 sensors to keep the light off
Anyone here an electrical engineer?

You don't need no stinken electrical engineer - pull the dash and remove the bulbs :tsk:

 

Is that how you used to fix check engine lights? Or just sea foam?


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

 

I prefer dumping sea foam in every orifice

(jk, I have never even used sea foam, ever)

 

Do any off you guys have a sense of humor? Or is it only funny in my brain as the wife tells me?

 

I am told the same thing !! It wasn't funny plenty of people will laugh and I'm not their boss if ya know what I mean . No sense of humor well not the way we think anyway . LOL (her):thumbdwn: (me):rofl:

 

Pictures--will post my thoughts later. Running late for a hair cut!

Here she is! This thing is much heavier than it looks. I was expecting some thin walled tubing or something with a bend and o-ring on it, but this thing is pretty stout feeling








Pretty solid piece--not sure what it's made out of, but I'm sure that $49 funnel will fit right into this opening!


Tapers down


O-Ring






Overall, I think it will do the job just fine--the problem is getting the metal tubes between the air valves and back of the engine off may be more trouble than it's worth. With those tubes on, you already have a decent point to pour a solvent in, and a decent place to put compressed air in (I think anyways, guess we'll see)

 

But I wanted to see the funnel?

 

Lol, I only have the pipe..

 

Only sold in a kit normally, but someone on the forum had a hook up

 

Just took a few moments to look at pre-cat O2 sensor values at start up:

At start up I'm getting about 2.5V (2.4 to 2.7) on the bank that doesn't have the secondary air system error and ~1.8-1.9V on the one that does have the error. Surprising to me--that makes it seem like it's getting some amount of air through there, just not enough apparently. That may mean the valve is stuck, or may mean it's not quite all the way clogged.. which hopefully increases my chances of being able to fix it with the heads on.

They then went down to about 1.2V for a few seconds, then settled at 1.5V for the next two minutes (that was all I recorded). I'll hook up the laptop in the morning when I leave for work and take a video of it from cold to hot to see if I see the same results.

 

Yesterday with the engine off, I used INPA to turn the secondary air pump on. I noticed I could feel a little air being blown out, it felt like it was coming from under the intake.

Is this normal when the air ports are clogged or does it appear I have a pipe or something else leaking at the very least?

 

Yesterday with the engine off, I used INPA to turn the secondary air pump on. I noticed I could feel a little air being blown out, it felt like it was coming from under the intake.
Is this normal when the air ports are clogged or does it appear I have a pipe or something else leaking at the very least?

It's probably not designed to have excessive back pressure. Maybe you should clean your ports, then see if you have the same leak.

 

When I clean the ports I was going to just replace all the pipes/valves (secondary air system valves that is) while I'm at it since the intake has to come off. Really don't feel like doing that twice to save a few bucks. And I really doubt I can get them off without breaking them--they have to be super brittle by now

If I end up not being able to get it cleared out with the AGA tool, then I'll probably send the pipes/valves back

 

When I clean the ports I was going to just replace all the pipes/valves (secondary air system valves that is) while I'm at it since the intake has to come off. Really don't feel like doing that twice to save a few bucks. And I really doubt I can get them off without breaking them--they have to be super brittle by now
If I end up not being able to get it cleared out with the AGA tool, then I'll probably send the pipes/valves back

You have to remove the intake? They make it look so easy on the video.

 

Shpenexel

you should not feel any air under the intake area or anywhere. The back pressure on the clogged bank will just flow into the open bank and out the exhaust.

The good news is if you are feeling air you may also have a cracked pipe and the air ports may not be as clogged as you think. maybe??

You know I have had mine off both valves and new Y pipe. I don't think you really need that tube from AGA. Once the valve is off the existing pipe is accessible. I think you will find that trying to remove the existing pipe at the rear of the head will be a PIA.

Just an FYI... when you do put the new Y pipe on the valves I had to push quite a bit on the pipe to get the plastic catch to snap on the new valve. There was a faint click. make sure you hear this click otherwise the pipe may come back off under air load and then guess what...

Good luck, I am following the thread because if you get it freed up I may pull my intake again and give it a try.

Also I think its the compressed air that will eventually blow out a port or two. I think the brush is just gonna clean out the rail.

Good luck!

 

Well I just had a long reply typed and somehow lost it, gah. Here is what I remember of it:

Thanks for the info--that makes sense. Since at least one of the cylinder heads can get air through the secondary air ports, it seems like that even if the other one were stopped up, air would just get backed up into the Y pipe and ultimately go out the open head. I am going to try turning the fan on again tonight and see what happens

I distinctly remember starting to try to pull the Y pipe off of the valves at the back when I had my intake off for the coolant crossover pipe job, and remember thinking I hope I didn't just crack that pipe.. I had looked up the pipe and was just going to replace it, but somehow looked up a part that was like $200 by mistake, so I decided to just leave it. Hindsight is 20/20 as they say and the part is only about $50

I have a feeling you are right in regards to using the AGA pipe may be more trouble than it's worth. I'm just not sure it makes sense, but will try to use it if there's any reasonable way to do and let everyone know results. There's already a pipe connected from the back of the engine up to the air pump valve, so I'm not sure why people don't just use this one? I ordered new o-rings for this pipe, but don't plan on replacing them. They should clean up fine

Speaking of parts--I just placed my order. Got new air pump control valves, gaskets for them, Y pipe, intake gaskets, filter for the air pump and a lot of new bolts as well so I don't have to worry about dropping one or two here or there

ECS says the order will ship on Wednesday, which means I should have it on Friday. The girlfriend might kill me if I spend another weekend working on my car, though. lol

edit: I agree on the compressed air--I'll probably try to find a brush I can run through there just to make sure there's nothing too crazy in there. I am hoping I get in there and the cracked hose is the main problem, but since I'm already there I can clean things out as best I can for now, which will hopefully at least buy me some more time before they really clog up. Some of the exhaust ports I have seen on other cars has been pretty horrendous, but whatever. If it works I'm ok with it for now.

 

And of course my order has been delayed. Won't ship until Friday now it looks like

Also, I am going back and editing the post with the pictures in it to give some feedback on the pipe

 

Hey guys just thought I would chime in on this topic.
I am in the middle of the p0491 code. Was hoping it was the y pipe but after taking everything apart I found no cracked tube or leaks. It seems that my ports are blocked. I have soaked with Sea foam as well as carb cleaner for 3 days now and still cannot get air to pass thru.
(2005 545, 157k) I thought about purchasing the AGA kit but really can't see how that would resolve blocked ports. I even sent them a message asking but got no response. Also, I did remove the tube that runs down the side of the head and ran a long wire brush in and flushed with carb cleaner repeatedly, still no luck. Even hooked a vacuum up trying to suck out any carbon, with no luck. If anyone has any suggestions please, please let me know.
Also, I am on the fence about the coolant tube. Mine isn't leaking that I know of, should I or shouldn't I replace it? If so anyone know if either the $600 AGA or I see a $200 tube on some other sites?
Thanks

RonVF
Halfmoon NY

 

How long had yours been blocked prior to trying to clear them out?

I would replace the coolant pipe now if you have the intake off

I used the URO one for ~$200 and have had no further issues. Getting the front seal seated correctly is the only difficult part (see thread in my signature)

 

Well you have done just about everything I did for my P0492, Just the opposite head. But I think its the compressed air that you need. Even in the AGA youtube they mention using compressed air to break open the clogged ports.

I was only using 30PSI when I did mine. My mistake was not using 90 -120 PSI. That would be my next suggestion.

 

My check engine light came on just before my inspection was due in February 2013. Now 2 tickets later I figured it was time to resolve the issue.
Hogie, I have been trying both blowing air, as high as my compressor will go, 100+ psi as well as using a shop vac with a small hose attached.
Still nothing. I'm hoping eventually it will break free.
I was really a thinking I was going to get this job along with valves covers done over the weekend..***** was I wrong...

 

OK - I understand as I was not able to clear mine. I was able to pass inspection where I was at by resetting the fault and then timing the inspection as soon as the air pump status went ready in the OBDII and before triggering the next code.

What we really need is a borescope to see in the rail and then come sort of drill catheter where we can surgically drill the ports from within.

Or just take the heads off but I understand labor intensive at least for me.

 

Hogie, so you never did get yours clear? I tried timing the code but it come back on to quick.
(Just did that timing it just right trick with my wife's car yesterday...2004 Chrysler Pacifica with a Evaporative system (small leak).

I read on one of these post that someone clears the ports by removing the exhaust manifold and going up from underneath.
I don't know the details or what shop charges might be but its got to be better than pulling the head for sure.

 

Yeah, bmwoem1 mentioned doing it that way (underneath)

From what I remember Hogie did not get his to clear, but he also only used 30psi of air. I am planning on using as high as I have available if necessary

I have also thought about using something like Nitrogen for the higher pressure.. but there is a freeze plug on the back of the head that I really don't want to risk blowing out. Although I guess some JB Weld could fix that right up if I had to

 

Yahoooo! After pushing and pulling ( kind of like a make shift plunger ) for 4 days, I finally got at least one port to open and air along with carb cleaner to flow thru. Air and fluid came blowing up thru the spark plug hole.
Dont know if its enough to clear the code but I am hoping that it will because now with an open port the others won't unless maybe I stick a plug back into # 4 with the exhaust valve closed.
Either way, feeling better about the whole thing now.
Schpenxel, I did. take your advice and ordered the coolant tube and other parts from BMA Auto parts. I don't want to have to do any of this again...

Hopefully I didn't hijack this thread.

I will update once job is complete.

 

Did it end up taking a lot of pressure or what finally did it??