DIY: 1998 528i Fuel Filter, Fuel Hose Replacement
There are a few excellent DIYs already, I just want to add my version.
NOTE:
* 1996-1998: simple fuel filter ---> cheaper at $18.
* 1999-2003: Fuel Filter has built-in pressure regulator ---> more expensive ($55 or so).
Excellent DIYs:
A mix of 1997 528i and 2001 530:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=630970
Photo of Fuel Filter at 120k (Plus extensive DIY with photos)
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1809118
PARTS/TOOLS:
1. Parts bought from rmeuropean dot com (you can use EACEuro as well).
- MANN Fuel Filter
- Cohline Hose 2134.0600 has I.D. =7.5mm.
The factory is 8mm, but many people have used this 7.5mm hose without any issues.
Plus it is much cheaper to use this hose: $6/meter. I bought 2 meters just in case.
Car is 14 years old, I elected to change the fuel hose so I don't have to come back and take care of this later.
- Clamps x12
![Image]()
2. Tools:
- 8-mm, 10-mm socket
- Screwdrivers
- Wire cutter (to remove the Oetiker clamps)
- Right-angle pliers is a must, this tool makes removal of the fuel hose a breeze!
- Long-Nose Vise grip is very useful to remove worn out clamps (because the screwdriver can slip off the "break-away" clamps).
- Allen key for the Fuel Filter Clamp (5mm).
- Goggles to protect your eyes!
![Image]()
PROCEDURE:
1. Both LEFT tires on wood ramps.
- Remove the plastic shield (8-mm, 10-mm and plastic fasteners).
- For the plastic fasteners, pry the center tip out first, then the larger part later.
- Keep all these in a container to avoid loss!
2. De-pressurize the fuel system.
![Image]()
3. Look at the anatomy, I did not know how to change #7 (it is hooked to a plastic line so I assume it is the return and low-pressure line), so I left #7 alone. It looked good anyway.
- I also left the vacuum hose alone because it looked good.
- I replaced hoses labeled #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, #,6.
![Image]()
4. This photo shows the Right-angle pliers at work, twisting the fuel hose off.
- Don't pull the fuel hose, twist it first (use your other hand to stabilizer the other connection while twisting), then slowly work it out.
- For new hose installation, a bit of engine oil on the connector side makes a huge difference, it slides in very well.
![Image]()
5. When disconnecting some lines, some remaining fuel will flow out, so use the caps that came with the filter to temporarily cap the line.
- The Fuel Filter contains some gasoline, don't waste it, pout it into the lawn mower or the gas tank (with the forward arrow sign!).
- The Fuel Filter has an arrow, pay attention to this!
6. When all done, do not install the plastic shield yet.
- You need to check for leaks.
- Put key in ignition, turn to position II (do NOT crank engine!). Now remove key from ignition.
- Repeat this step about 10 times, this will prime the fuel system.
- Then start the engine and check for leaks.
- Re-install the plastic shield.
Final Product:
![Image]()
There are a few excellent DIYs already, I just want to add my version.
NOTE:
* 1996-1998: simple fuel filter ---> cheaper at $18.
* 1999-2003: Fuel Filter has built-in pressure regulator ---> more expensive ($55 or so).
Excellent DIYs:
A mix of 1997 528i and 2001 530:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=630970
Photo of Fuel Filter at 120k (Plus extensive DIY with photos)
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1809118
PARTS/TOOLS:
1. Parts bought from rmeuropean dot com (you can use EACEuro as well).
- MANN Fuel Filter
- Cohline Hose 2134.0600 has I.D. =7.5mm.
The factory is 8mm, but many people have used this 7.5mm hose without any issues.
Plus it is much cheaper to use this hose: $6/meter. I bought 2 meters just in case.
Car is 14 years old, I elected to change the fuel hose so I don't have to come back and take care of this later.
- Clamps x12
2. Tools:
- 8-mm, 10-mm socket
- Screwdrivers
- Wire cutter (to remove the Oetiker clamps)
- Right-angle pliers is a must, this tool makes removal of the fuel hose a breeze!
- Long-Nose Vise grip is very useful to remove worn out clamps (because the screwdriver can slip off the "break-away" clamps).
- Allen key for the Fuel Filter Clamp (5mm).
- Goggles to protect your eyes!
PROCEDURE:
1. Both LEFT tires on wood ramps.
- Remove the plastic shield (8-mm, 10-mm and plastic fasteners).
- For the plastic fasteners, pry the center tip out first, then the larger part later.
- Keep all these in a container to avoid loss!
2. De-pressurize the fuel system.
3. Look at the anatomy, I did not know how to change #7 (it is hooked to a plastic line so I assume it is the return and low-pressure line), so I left #7 alone. It looked good anyway.
- I also left the vacuum hose alone because it looked good.
- I replaced hoses labeled #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, #,6.
4. This photo shows the Right-angle pliers at work, twisting the fuel hose off.
- Don't pull the fuel hose, twist it first (use your other hand to stabilizer the other connection while twisting), then slowly work it out.
- For new hose installation, a bit of engine oil on the connector side makes a huge difference, it slides in very well.
5. When disconnecting some lines, some remaining fuel will flow out, so use the caps that came with the filter to temporarily cap the line.
- The Fuel Filter contains some gasoline, don't waste it, pout it into the lawn mower or the gas tank (with the forward arrow sign!).
- The Fuel Filter has an arrow, pay attention to this!
6. When all done, do not install the plastic shield yet.
- You need to check for leaks.
- Put key in ignition, turn to position II (do NOT crank engine!). Now remove key from ignition.
- Repeat this step about 10 times, this will prime the fuel system.
- Then start the engine and check for leaks.
- Re-install the plastic shield.
Final Product:
