Check harbor freight or local auto parts store for engine hoist load balancer. Typically around $40 USD.

RE your #2 Q: Remove shroud / radiator, engine fan/fan clutch, etc.. to get room to move engine forward and away from transmission bell housing. You need to support the transmission as well. It is sometimes easier to remove both together. it is also easier if you remove the hood for total engine bay access. If you have an auto transmission, need to remove auto trans cooler lines as well.

Do you have a Bentley manual? Procedure is laid out in there.

 

I did a /engine(F3) in the bestlinks to find this, which may help:
- How to make your own engine hoist and engine support (1) when removing the subframe or I6 oil pan

 

Thanks for that Jason. I had originally planned on removing the entire front and rolling out the entire engine with tranny attached. I dropped that idea since that would require me to remove the condenser.

And yes I have the Bentley manual - I have printed out procedures from the: Bentley manual, TIS, pelican parts, various online DIYs. Together they almost form a complete picture, but I couldn't find any direct descriptions of moving/aligning the transmission.

bluebee, seems like an interesting and cheap fix if you don't have access to a hoist, and need to remove the subframe.

 

have printed out procedures from the: Bentley manual, TIS, pelican parts, various online DIYs. Together they almost form a complete picture, but I couldn't find any direct descriptions of moving/aligning the transmission

Since you're doing the research, it would be GREAT to have a list of the links that help a user most when doing their own engine swap!

I'd add it to this set of links I just put into the bestlinks from reading over two dozen sad E39 blown-engine stories.

- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) & how to test an engine for blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & a well researched reusable response to a particular user with a blown engine (1) & what questions to ask when severe heating-related damage is initially suspected (1) & what E39 engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & why the E39 engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & real-world results from people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25).

 

This is a similar question of how to lift the M54 engine on the E46 side of the house:
- Engine Removal Lift Points

It would be nice if someone has a picture of the rear lifting hook.

 

For the crosslinked record, this related topic was posted today ...

I'm not shy to take the whole car apart, but I really don't want to remove more than necessary, especially if I have to replace the gaskets/seals afterwards. That being said, I'm going back and forth about removing the engine: should I take both engine and transmission or engine only? Based on feedback on this forum, it seemed removing both might be easier, until I got to the giubo. After reading about it I felt less embarrassed for getting stuck there, especially without removing the exhaust.

Here's where I could use some help:

1. I removed the bumper to make room for both (eng+transm) to slide out. The aux fan is out, but the radiator is still in the way. I can disconnect the transm. lines at the transmission, but where do I disconnect the AC lines?
How do I disconnect the AC compressor and lines so I wouldn't have to recharge the system afterwards? I can't reach the bolt to disconnect the compressor no matter how I try.

2. Where is the best part to disconnect the transmission? The manual says disconnect the exhaust first anyway, then the giubo seemed the way to go. But if this can be difficult to put back or it can cause vibrations if not compressed properly - maybe I should just stick to the bell housing bolts? Or leave the giubo on and disconnect the shaft at the rear end?

Thank you in advance.

See also:
- How to identify an oil pan gasket leak (1) & how to remove & replace the E39 V8 oil pan gasket (1) (2) or the E39 I6 oil pan gasket by dropping the subframe (1) (2) (3) & hints how to replace the rigid metalized I6 oil pan gasket without removing the subframe (1) (2) & how to build or buy your own hoist & engine-support tools (1) (2)

 

As self-appointed librarian, I cross reference this related thread from today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Hanging up a M62B44 on a 4-arm engine stand?

Hello! Do you think it works out to hang up my complete M62B44 in this engine stand? I am a bit worried that it will be too big break force in the four M10 holes in aluminum... Think the engine weigh is about 150-175kilos
Engine Mounting points: http://imgdrop.se/UPL/1399120894npf.jpg
The stand: http://imgdrop.se/UPL/1399120942our.jpg

See also:
- How to make or buy your own engine lift, engine hoist & engine support tools (1) (2)

 

For the record, the E46 guys are currently discussing the strength needed for an engine hoist carabiner or D-clip today ...
> E46 (1999 - 2006) > Am I crazy for thinking that this will support the engine?

Am I crazy for thinking that this will support the engine?
It is about 1cm in diameter

Here's the gist of my response ...

All carabiners should be stamped with CE certified strength ratings to handle the dynamic load ...

All carabiners are rated on their spine for three strengths:

1. along the major axis, gate closed;
2. along the major axis, gate open;
3. and along the minor axis.

This strength is measured in kilonewtons, or kN.
A single kN is about 224.8 foot-pounds of force, so a 25kN carabiner is quite strong, capable of holding more than 2 tons of force.
All carabiners are sufficiently strong along their major axis when closed for even the worst falls under normal circumstances. However, if the gate opens due to flutter or being pushed against the rock, the carabiner's overall strength will significantly diminish. An 8Kn rating for open-gate strength is good, 10kN or better is ideal.
Pro Tip: Never cross-load your carabiner along the minor axis, as even normal falls can break them.

See also:
- How to build or buy your own hoist & engine-support tools (1)

You *might* be alright if you aren't going to joustle the engine too much, but I would say spend $5 and be sure.

I would buy one $9 locking Black Diamond carabiner ... (or an inexpensive set of $6 ones, and put two together, with one reversed)...

I would want a minimum working load strength rating of at least 600 lbs.

Regarding redundancy ...
A single clamp failed, and, apparently there was no redudancy, paralyzing some of these performers below ...

When a rated Black Diamond carabiner costs less than ten bucks, redundancy is food for thought ...
- Broken Clamp Causes Nine Circus Performers to Fall During 'Hair Hang' Act (1)

The D-shaped metal clasp that held the performers was about 3 inches by 5 inches, said Paré. It is the same type of device as those used by mountain climbers to secure ropes. It was rated for 10,000 pounds, and the estimated load during the performance was about 1,500 pounds, according to Paul Doughty, an investigator for the Providence Fire Department. The clip broke on the solid spine, not on the side of the hinged opening, according to public safety officials, and was found in three pieces after the accident. It's unclear if it had been used in previous shows. "Why that failed is the focus," Paré said on Monday.

 

Spend the money and get the rings that screw closed. Less than $5 for a pack of three at Harbor Freight. No issues.

 

For the record, this thread, lowering the I6 subframe, used this hoist:
- E39 6cyl oil pan gasket replacement illustrated (1)